The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Many significant glances had been exchanged over portions of the baggage
that had unavoidably been exposed; but a night of redoubled vigilance
was cut short by a summons to relinquish sleep and bedding at two in the
morning, and a march of sixteen miles over a vast alluvial flat
conducted past the Bedouin station of Ulwulli to Barurudda, on the plain
of Kellali. The road led along the base of the low range of Jebel
Eesah, through abundance of coarse grass concealing lava pieces and
volcanic detritus, the prospect being bounded by distant blue mountains
towering to the peak of Kuffal Ali. A _korhaan_ rose at intervals, wild
and noisy as his chattering kindred in the south, but few other signs of
animated nature enlivened the long sultry march. In the grey of the
morning, a solitary Bedouin horseman ambled past with some message to
the savages at Amadoo, and from him was obtained the disagreeable
intelligence, which subsequently proved too true, that not a drop of
water existed over the whole of the wide plain within a day's journey,
and that the station beyond was thronged with tribes, collected with
their flocks and herds from all the country round, at this, the oasis.
After a hot dusty day the sky was again overcast, and sufficient rain
fell to render every one wet and uncomfortable, without filling the
pools, or checking the dire persecutions of a host of cattle ticks,
which covered every part of the ground. Absence of water led to another
midnight march, and the moon affording little light, the road was for
some time lost, though eventually recovered by the sagacity of a female
slave of Mohammad Ali's, when all the lords of the creation were at
fault. This damsel, who always led the foremost string of camels, was
one of those frolicsome productions of Nature, which the wanton dame
pawns on the world in her most laughing moods, and the appearance of her
daughter could scarcely fail to elicit the mirth of the most sedate
beholder. A small round bullet head, furnished with a well-greased mop,
and a pair of moist brilliant eyes, formed the apex of a figure, which,
in all other respects, was that of the concentrated amazon, exhibiting a
system of globes both before and behind, agitated by a tremulous
vibration as the short fat legs imparted progressive motion. A blue
kerchief tied jauntily over the head--ponderous wooden ear-rings,
fashioned on the model of Chubb's largest lock--a necklace of white
beads, and a greasy leathern apron slung about the unwieldy hips without
any remarkable regard to decency--set off the corpulent charms of the
good-natured Hasseinee, the exhibition of whose monstrous eccentricities
in Europe, must infallibly have ensured a fortune to the showman.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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