The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Neither on the part of those composing the caravan was much privacy
allowed during the sultry day, when seclusion was so highly desirable.
Here, as throughout the march, offensive camel-drivers obtruded
themselves without any regard either to time or season; occupying the
chairs, composing themselves to sleep in groups upon the beds or on the
table; and, whilst they picked their ears and teeth with the pens, or
employed the knives in the pleasing operation of paring their filthy
talons, spitting without remorse wheresoever they listed. Hating and
despising a Frank with all the zeal of the bigot, they yet insisted upon
shaking hands, on each intrusion, with the most scrupulous attention to
Danakil etiquette, and with unhesitating alacrity devoured the biscuits
and swallowed the coffee of the "Christian dogs."
The despotic arrangements enforced by the Ras el Kafilah, although
doubtless materially conducive to his own personal convenience, and to
that of his unaccommodating followers, were moreover far from enhancing
the comfort of the Embassy. Boxes and bales, after having been
unceremoniously dashed upon the ground, in utter disregard of
remonstrance or of the fragile nature of the contents, had on this
occasion, as on the termination of each march, been piled in a circle,
each component heap consisting of three sides of a square, which, with
the addition of a few mats thrown over the top, formed a habitation
fully as commodious as a Dankali is ever accustomed to. Any attempt to
disturb the economy of these tenements, by referring to the boxes
employed in their construction, being regarded as an act of premeditated
injury and insult, was stoutly resisted; and as no portion of the
baggage once removed to the tent, was ever received again without a
battle, the materials of comfort or occupation were very rarely
obtainable. In the selection of his load at Tajura, every self-willed
driver had suited his individual inclinations, and as no persuasion
could now induce him to deposit any portion in a spot where it might be
under surveillance, the provisions, placed beyond the reach of their
owners, but accessible to every hungry knave, were perpetually pilfered
and purloined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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