The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
The arrangement of his hair has occupied the entire morning, and the
steam of the fetid butter, which glistens among the minute curls,
pervades the entire atmosphere. Muffled high above the chin, the eyes
and nose of the functionary are alone submitted to the vulgar gaze, and
as he halts for a moment to wonder at the unwonted sight of the Gyptzi
strangers, the bloodshot eye betrays the midnight debauch, and the
wrinkles of his turned-up nose, the scorn of the savage at the
difference of costume and complexion. Approaching the acacia his
shoulders are temporarily bared to the pompous dignitary presiding over
the fair, who rising to receive him, returns the compliment, and there
ensues a tissue of inquiries unknown even to the code of Chesterfield.
Cantering over the tiny plain--a scanty level of an hundred yards--the
wild Galla enters the scene of confusion, his long tresses streaming in
the wind, and his garment blue with the grease of ages. A jar of honey,
or a basket of butter, is lashed to the crupper of his high-peaked
saddle; the steed is lean and shaggy as the rider, and the snort and the
start from either proclaim undefined terror and amazement at the strange
sights, and the rugged rocks and precipices, unknown to the boundless
meadows of their own green land.
Dandies there are none, in aught of outward appearance, for the
arrangement of the hair is the only latitude allowed to the invention of
the would-be fop. The cotton cloth in every degree of impurity, floats
over the swart shoulder both of noble and of serf. Bare heads and naked
feet are the property of all, and the possession of the spear and shield
alone marks the difference of rank. The chief scorns to carry a weapon
except during the foray or the fight, whereas his followers never leave
the threshold of their rude dwellings, without the lance in their hand,
and buckler on their arm.
The terror and abhorrence in which the low country and its attendant
dangers are held by the Abyssinian population, have placed nearly the
entire trade of Alio Amba in the hands of the Danakil, who are treated
by the monarch of Shoa with all deference and respect. Caravans arrive
every month during the fair season from Aussa and Tajura, and the
traffic, considering the manifold drawbacks, may be said to be brisk and
profitable. Numbers of foreign merchants, those of Hurrur especially,
whilst disposing of their goods, hold their temporary residence at the
market-town, the climate of which, many degrees warmer than the cold
summit of the range which towers two thousand feet above, proves far
more congenial to their taste and habits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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