The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Inner walls divided the centre room from two narrow verandahs, intended
for the reception of mules, horses, and household lumber. The floor was
precisely as nature made it, depressed rather than raised, and little
improved by the many recent inundations to which it had been subjected.
Torrents of muddy water filled the trench which environed the entire
structure, and occasionally bursting the banks of the dyke, oozed
copiously between the palisades, to cover the soil with artificial
lakes; whilst the small open area beyond, into which it disembogued--
hemmed in on all sides by rank vegetation, stinging nettles, and
half-ruined but noisily inhabited hovels--was, without any exaggeration,
eighteen inches deep in honest mire.
Although our pilgrimage had at last terminated, the prospect, both
within and without, was still far from encouraging. The mercury in
Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 58 degrees, and it became necessary to
adopt immediate measures towards the exclusion of the cold driving mist
and the whistling wind, which the absence of a fire rendered far from
agreeable. The union flag of old England, stretched across the hall,
lent the aid of its ample folds to enliven the interior. Tent walls and
tarpaulins composed tolerably comfortable cabins in the verandah
closets. Gun-cases, placed on end, and connected by the lid of a chest,
formed a temporary table, and with a puncheon as a washing-stand, and
two swinging shelves overhead, completed the furniture of each
apartment. Boxes and bales, as they continued to arrive, were piled
around the inner walls, and soon reaching to the ceiling, the appearance
of a booth at a country fair, on a rainy day, ere the wares have been
exposed for sale, was gradually imparted to this highly unique residency
in the capital of Shoa.
Volume Two, Chapter II.
RESIDENCE IN ANKOBER.
But darkness now reigned within our cheerless abode. Candles that will
burn for more than ten minutes together, or afford light sufficient
either to read or write, are luxuries which have no existence in so
primitive and benighted a land; and strips of old cotton rag dipped in
unpurified bees' wax, forming, like most other good things in the
empire, a royal monopoly, are doled out by the purveyor-general to the
favoured few with but a niggard hand; whilst the absence of glass or
other transparent substance, and the continued presence of rain, sleet,
clouds, and fog thicker than the steam of a wash-house, rendered it for
some time difficult to admit the scanty light of heaven during its
fitful visits through the overcast atmosphere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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