The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
A strange, though degrading and humiliating sight, rewarded the
admittance we had thus gained to the circular interior of the sacred
building. Coarse walls, only partially white-washed, rose in sombre
earth but a few feet overhead, and the suspended ostrich-egg--emblem of
heathenish idolatry--almost touched our heads as we were ushered in
succession to the seat of honour among the erudite. In a broad
verandah, strewed throughout with dirty wet rushes, were crowded the
blind, the halt, and the lame--an unwashed herd of sacred drones,
muffled in the skin of the _agazin_; but beyond this group of turbaned
monks and hireling beggars there was no congregation present.
The high-priest having proclaimed the munificence of the strangers,
pronounced his solemn benediction. Then arose a burst of praise the
most agonising and unearthly that ever resounded from dome dedicated to
Christian worship. No deep mellow chant from the chorister--no
soul-inspiring anthem, lifted the heart towards heaven. The Abyssinian
cathedral rang alone to the excruciating jar of most unmitigated
discord; and amid howling and screaming, each sightless orb was rolled
in the socket, and every mutilated limb convulsed with disgusting
vehemence. A certain revenue is attached to the performance of the
duty; and for one poor measure of black barley bread, the hired lungs
were taxed to extremity; but not the slightest attempt could be detected
at music or modulation; and the dissonant chink of the timbrel was ably
seconded by the cracked voice of the mercenary vocalist.
No liturgy followed the cessation of these hideous screams. The service
was at an end, and the _Alaka_, beckoning us to follow, led the way
round the edifice. The walls were adorned with a few shields, and with
miserable daubs representing the Madonna, the Holy Trinity _in caelo_,
the Father of Evil enveloped in flames, Saint Peter and Saint Paul,
Saint George and his green dragon, Saint Demetrius vanquishing the lion,
Saint Tekla Haimanot, Saint Balaam and his ass, the Patron Saint, and
every other saint in the Abyssinian calendar. But they boasted of no
sculptured monument raised to departed worth or genius--no proud banner
or trophy of heroic deeds--and no marble tablet to mark the quiet rest
of the soldier, the statesman, or the scholar. In the holy of holies,
which may be penetrated by none save the high-priest, is deposited the
sacred _tabot_, or ark of the faith, consecrated at Gondar by the
delegate of the Coptic patriarch; and around the veil that fell before
this mysterious emblem, there hung in triumph four sporting pictures,
from the pencil of Alken, which I had lately presented to His Majesty.
They represented the great Leicestershire steeple-chase; and Dick
Christian, with his head in a ditch, occupied by far the most prominent
niche in the boasted cathedral of Saint Michael!
Volume Two, Chapter III.
INTERVIEWS WITH THE KING.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account