The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
During the dead of night, when restless unrefreshing slumbers on the
heated ground had hushed the camp in all its quarters, the elders, in
great consternation, brought a report that the Bedouin war-hawks, who
nestle in the lap of the adjacent wild mountains, were collecting in the
neighbourhood with the design of making a sudden swoop upon the kafilah,
for which reason the European escort must be prepared for battle, and
muskets be discharged forthwith, to intimidate the lurking foe. They
were informed, in reply, that all slept upon their arms, and were in
readiness; but Mohammad Ali came shortly afterwards to announce that
matters had been amicably adjusted with the aid of a few ells of blue
cloth; and under the care of a double sentry, the party slept on without
further disturbance until two in the morning, prior to which hour, the
moon, now on her wane, had not attained sufficient altitude to render
advance practicable.
The aid of her pale beams was indispensable, in consequence of the
existence of the yawning pass of Rah Eesah, not one hundred yards
distant from the encampment just abandoned, but till now unperceived.
It derives its appellation, as "the road of the Eesahs," from the fact
of this being the path usually chosen by that hostile portion of the
Somauli nation, on the occasions of their frequent forays into the
country of the Danakil, with whom, singularly enough, an outward
understanding subsists. Its depths have proved the arena of many a
sanguinary contest, and are said, after each downpouring of the heavens,
to become totally impassable, until again cleared of the huge blocks of
stone, the detritus from the scarped cliffs, which so choke the bed of
the chasm, as to impede all progress. The labour of removing these,
secures certain immunities to the wild pioneers, who levy a toll upon
every passing caravan, and who in this instance were propitiated, on
application, by the division of a bale of blue cotton calico, a
manufacture here esteemed beyond all price.
A deep zig-zagged rent in the plateaux, produced originally by some
grand convulsion of nature, and for ages the channel of escape to the
sea of the gathered waters from Jebel Goodah, winds like a mythological
dragon through the bowels of the earth, upwards of three miles to the
southward. Masses of basalt of a dark burnt brown colour, are piled
perpendicularly on either side, like the solid walls of the impregnable
fortresses reared by the Cyclops of old; and rising from a very narrow
channel, strewed with blocks of stone, and huge fallen fragments of
rock, tower overhead to the height of five or six hundred feet. One
perilous path affords barely sufficient width for a camel's tread, and
with a descensus of one foot and a half in every three, leads twisting
away into the gloomy depths below, dedicated to the son of Chaos and
Darkness, and now plunged in total obscurity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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