The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
The schooner, although riding safely at anchor near the western
extremity, was altogether concealed by precipitous walls that towered
above her raking masts, and kept the party in uncertainty of her
arrival. Crossing the lone valley of Marmoriso, a remnant of volcanic
action, rent and seamed with gaping fissures, the road turned over a
large basaltic cone, which had brought fearful devastation upon the
whole surrounding country, and here one solitary gazelle browsed on
stubble-like vegetation scorched to a uniform brown. Skirting the base
of a barren range, covered with heaps of lava blocks, and its foot
ornamented with many artificial piles, marking deeds of blood, the lofty
conical peak of Jebel Seearo rose presently to sight, and not long
afterwards the far-famed Lake Assal, surrounded by dancing mirage, was
seen sparkling at its base.
The first glimpse of the strange phenomenon, although curious, was far
from pleasing. An elliptical basin, seven miles in its transverse axis,
half filled with smooth water of the deepest caerulean blue, and half
with a solid sheet of glittering snow-white salt, the offspring of
evaporation--girded on three sides by huge hot-looking mountains, which
dip their bases into the very bowl, and on the fourth by crude
half-formed rocks of lava, broken and divided by the most unintelligible
chasms,--it presented the appearance of a spoiled, or at least of a very
unfinished piece of work. Bereft alike of vegetation and of animal
life, the appearance of the wilderness of land and stagnant water, over
which a gloomy silence prevailed, and which seemed a temple for ages
consecrated to drought, desolation, and sterility, is calculated to
depress the spirit of every beholder. No sound broke on the ear; not a
ripple played upon the water; the molten surface of the lake, like
burnished steel, lay unruffled by a breeze; the fierce sky was without a
cloud, and the angry sun, like a ball of metal at a white heat, rode
triumphant in a full blaze of noontide refulgence, which in sickening
glare was darted back on the straining vision of the fainting wayfarer,
by the hot sulphury mountains that encircled the still, hollow, basin.
A white foam on the shelving shore of the dense water, did contrive for
a brief moment to deceive the eye with an appearance of motion and
fluidity; but the spot, on more attentive observation, ever remained
unchanged--a crystallised efflorescence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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