The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
A low range of limestone hillocks, interspersed with strange masses of
coral, and marked by a pillar like that of Lot, encloses the well of
Hanlefanta, where each mule obtained a shield full of water. From the
glittering shores of the broad lake, the road crosses the saline
incrustation, which extends about two miles to the opposite brink.
Soiled and mossy near the margin, the dull crystallised salt appears to
rest upon an earthy bottom; but it soon becomes lustrous and of a purer
colour, and floating on the surface of the dense water, like a rough
coarse sheet of ice, irregularly cracked, is crusted with a white
yielding efflorescence, resembling snow which has been thawed and
refrozen, but which still, as here, with a crisp sound, receives the
impress of the foot. A well trodden path extends through the prismatic
colours of the rainbow, by the longitudinal axis of the ellipse, to the
northeastern extremity of the gigantic bowl, whence the purest salt is
obtainable in the vicinity of several cold springs, said to cast up
large pebbles on their jet, through the ethereal blue water.
At some distance from the beach was a caravan of Bedouin salt-diggers,
busily loading their camels for the markets of Aussa and Abyssinia,
where it forms on article of extensive traffic and barter. Two other
basins of a similar stamp, but inferior extent, which exist at no great
distance to the northward, are styled "Ullool" and "Dus." The first of
these producing salt of most exquisite lustre, is preferred by the
Mudaito tribes, from whose capital Aussa, it is not more remote than
Doba, as they term the Bahr Assal, the right to frequent which is
asserted as an exclusive privilege by the Danakil, who for centuries
have actually held the monopoly undisputed. Transferred in bulk in long
narrow mat bags, wrought of the date-leaf, it is exchanged for slaves
and grain, and not only forms, as in other climes, one of the chief
necessaries of life, but possesses a specific value for the rock salt of
the north, which, cut into rectangular blocks, passes as a circulating
medium.
A second low belt of hills, gypsum and anhydrite, succeeded by limestone
overstrewed with basaltic boulders, forms the western bank of the molten
sea, and opens into a mountain ravine. Taking its source at Allooli,
the highest point of the Gollo range, this torrent strives to disembogue
into the extremity of the lake, although its waters seldom arrive so
far, save during the rainy season. The high basaltic cliffs that hem in
the pebbly channel, approximating in the upper course as they increase
rapidly in altitude, form a narrow waist, where the first running stream
that had greeted the eye of the pilgrims since leaving the shores of
Asia, trickled onwards, leaving bright limpid pools, surrounded by
brilliant sward.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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