The History and Antiquities of the Doric Race, Vol. 2 of 2Müller, Karl Otfried
History
The History and Antiquities of the Doric Race, Vol. 2 of 2
Müller, Karl Otfried
Dorians -- History; Greece -- Antiquities, Dorian; Greece -- History -- Dorian Invasions, approximately 1125-1025 B.C.
3. On the dress of the Spartans I need only, after the labours of former
writers,(1250) make the following remarks. The chief, or indeed the only
garment of the Doric virgin is by ancient writers sometimes called
_himation_,(1251) sometimes _chiton_: the former more correctly, as
appears from works of art; and the latter word was used metaphorically,
from the resemblance of the himation to the linen chiton of the Ionians.
This garment of woollen stuff was without sleeves, and fastened over both
shoulders by clasps (πόρπαι, περόναι), which were often of considerable
size;(1252) while the Ionic women wore sleeves of greater or less
length.(1253) This chiton was only joined together on one side, while on
the other it was left partly open or slit up (σχιστὸς χίτων(1254));
probably it could be fastened with clasps, or opened wider, so as to admit
a freer motion of the limbs, so that the two skirts (πτέρυγες) flew open;
whence Ibycus called the Spartan women φαινομηρίδες.(1255) This garment
was also worn without a girdle; when it hung down to the calves of the
legs.(1256)
This is generally the dress with which the goddesses Victory and Iris are
represented in works of art, the latter particularly among the statues
from the pediment of the Parthenon, in which rapid motion is indicated by
the chiton being thrown from the feet and ancles on the left side; and in
the same chiton, though with more ample folds, is the dress of Athene in
many statues of the more finished and perfect style of the art: and
Artemis, the huntress, in the Doric chiton, girt up for the purpose of
rapid motion.
In one of these different fashions, according to her object and business,
the virgin of Sparta, generally without the himation,(1257) wore a single
garment, and appeared even in the company of men without any further
covering. Thus Periander the Corinthian(1258) was seized with love for the
beautiful Melissa at Epidaurus, when he saw her dressed, after the
Peloponnesian manner, in her chiton, without any upper garment, as she was
giving out wine to the labourers.(1259) In this costume the Doric virgins
might be seen dancing at their places of exercise and in the chorus.(1260)
The married women, however, never appeared without an upper garment; which
probably was not essentially different from the himation of the men: thus,
for example, the wife of Phocion, who lived in the Doric manner, according
to the account of Plutarch, often went out in the himation of her husband.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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