5. As at Athens the style of dress indicated the rank and station of the wearer, so also the Doric manners were clearly expressed in the arrangement of the clothes. Thus, for example, it was generally recognised in Greece that holding the arms within the cloak was a sign of modesty;(1276) and hence the Spartan youths, like the Roman in the first year of their manhood, appeared always in the street with both hands under their cloak and their eyes cast down, “resembling statues,” says Xenophon,(1277) “in their silence, and in the immoveability of their eyes, and more modest than virgins in the bridal chamber.” In the same manner the youths of lower Italy, in which there were many Doric cities, are frequently represented on vases, with the arms folded under the cloak, which is indicated by the large fold across the breast.(1278) In other respects equality(1279) and simplicity were the prevailing rule. Manufacturers of ointment were excluded from Sparta, as being corrupters of oil: dyers, because they deprived the wool of its beautiful white colour.(1280) “Deceitful are ointments, and deceitful are dyes,” is the Spartan expression for this idea.(1281) Even in the cities which had early departed from the Doric customs, there were frequent and strict prohibitions against expensiveness of female attire, prostitutes alone being wisely excepted.(1282) As in Sparta the beard was considered as the ornament of a man,(1283) and as a sign of freedom (to which the symbolical edict of the ephors to shave the beard refers),(1284) so also at Byzantium and Rhodes shaving was prohibited by ancient, but constantly neglected, laws.(1285) The custom of carrying sticks (in Doric σκυτάλαι) was common to the Spartans,(1286) with the Dorians of lower Italy.(1287) 6. The Doric customs were not, however, hostile to the beauty of personal appearance; but the beauty at which they aimed was of a severe kind, and remote from all feminine tenderness. The Spartan from his youth upwards(1288) preserved, in order to distinguish him from slaves and mechanics,(1289) according to ancient usage,(1290) the hair of his head uncut,(1291) which indeed, if not properly arranged, might frequently give him a squalid appearance. It seems that both men and women tied the hair in a knot over the crown of the head;(1292) while, according to the Ionic custom, which in this respect resembled that of the barbarians, it was divided into locks, and connected over the forehead with golden clasps in the shape of grasshoppers.(1293) On their heads the Lacedæmonians wore hats with broad brims, which were sometimes also used in war, though probably only by the light-armed soldiers.(1294) The manner in which they arranged and adorned their hair for battle was remarked above.(1295)