The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“You need only hear an account of our day! In the morning, discussions
with workpeople and tradespeople over the choice of our dress! And what
trouble do we not take to secure the last novelty, to choose all that is
in the best taste, and to avoid any prejudice concerning a particular
fashion!... Next comes the excessive labour of making our toilet, with
all the attention necessary to ensure being well dressed....”
The Comtesse de Mailly retired to rest every night with her hair dressed,
and wearing all her diamonds. She used to call her tradespeople “her
little cats.”
High head-dresses came into fashion again for a short time, during the
reign of gigantic paniers, and were worn with powder. It took a whole
day to complete one of those monuments of the capillary art, which were
of such enormous size, that according to “Le Mercure de France” of 1730,
ladies could not sit in their coaches, but were obliged to kneel.
“Their woolly white hair,” says Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who visited
Paris at the time, “and fiery faces, make them look more like skinned
sheep than human beings.”
Mme. de Graffigny, the author of “Lettres Péruviennes,” protested against
the high head-dress. She wore her hair powdered, but close to her head
and covered with a little cap. This “little cap” was adopted by many
women of rank, and for several years was worn by all Frenchwomen. Women
of the people still wear round caps with two plaited wings coming
forward on the temples, and called “le bat en l’œil.” “The bourgeoises
have retained,” says “Le Livre de la Coiffure,” “the full-crowned cap,
surrounded with ribbon twists or bows, with two lappets falling over the
chignon, and frills of lace curving round the temples.”
Some ephemeral fashions were introduced into France by the Polish
princess Maria Leczinska, the wife of Louis XV.
“Hongrelines” were worn, and polonaises, or “hongroises,” trimmed with
“brandebourgs;” and, in 1729, embroidered mantillas of velvet and satin
lined with ermine or other fur, the two ends finished with handsome
tassels, that were tied behind the waist.
The “palatine” was thus no longer a solitary German fashion on the banks
of the Seine.
Powder remained in vogue for more than half a century. No doubt the
softness it conferred on the features, and the brilliancy it lent to the
eyes, made it pleasing to everybody. It was still worn in 1760, and again
in 1780, and after the Revolution it reappeared under the Directory in
1795.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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