The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
One day, in 1775, the new queen took up from her dressing-table two
peacock feathers, and placed them with several little ostrich plumes in
her hair. Louis XVI. came in, and greatly admired his wife, saying he
had never seen her look so well. Almost immediately feathers came into
fashion, not in France only, but throughout Europe. But when, shortly
afterwards, Marie Antoinette sent a portrait of herself, wearing large
feathers as a head-dress, to her mother, the Empress Maria Theresa
returned it. “There has been, no doubt, some mistake,” wrote Maria
Theresa; “I received the portrait of an actress, not that of a queen; I
am expecting the right one.”
This severe rebuke had no effect. Before 1778 the hair had been so
arranged as to form a point in front, called a “physionomie,” accompanied
by “attentions,” or thick, separate curls. But in 1778 the queen invented
the “hérisson,” or hedge-hog style of head-dress. Imagine a porcupine
lying on the top of the head, that is to say, a bush of hair frizzed from
the points to the roots, very high and without powder, and encircled
by a ribbon that kept this horrible tangle in its place. This style of
head-dress, somewhat modified, and reduced to a “demi-hérisson,” or half
hedge-hog, was in fashion for several years.
Marie Antoinette continued to invent new styles, such as “jardin à
l’anglaise,” “parterre,” “forest,” “enamelled meadows,” “foaming
torrents,” &c. How many ridiculous names were given to the inventions
of ladies endeavouring to imitate and surpass their queen! The hair
was dressed “butterfly” fashion, or “spaniels’ ears,” or “milksop,” or
“guéridon,” or “commode,” or “cabriolet,” or “mad dog,” or “sportsman in
a bush,” by turns.
At the clubs or in the public gardens, every one talked in raptures of
the achievements of Léonard, “Academician in coiffures and fashions,”
and those of Mdlle. Bertin, a milliner who at a later period delivered
herself as follows:—
“The last time I worked with the queen, we decided that the new caps
should not come out for another week.”
A didactic mode of expression! Turgot or Necker could not have spoken
more solemnly. It is true that Mdlle. Bertin’s fame had spread throughout
Europe.
In the “coiffure à la Dauphine” the hair was curled, and then drawn
up from the forehead, falling at the back of the head; that called
“monte-au-ciel” was of enormous size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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