The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Hair-dressing was a difficult art, requiring time and labour. Country
ladies employed a resident female hair-dresser in their house, by the
year, and on the occurrence of any family festival she would be kept at
work nearly the whole day.
In order to show the importance of this subject, we quote from
the “Journal de Paris” of February 10, 1777, to which was added a
supplementary engraving with the following explanation:—
“We add to our issue of this day an engraving representing two different
dressings of the hair, back and side views; they are drawn from nature by
a clever artist who has been kind enough to give us his assistance. The
figures 1 and 2 refer to one of these methods, the figures 3 and 4 to the
other.
“If by this attempt we succeed in giving pleasure to those ladies who are
included among our subscribers, we shall be happy to renew an expenditure
that proves our zeal in their service.”
No satire was intended by the above publication. The “Journal de Paris”
was a grave production, and the prints it published were of “moderate”
head-dresses, if I may so express myself, of no excessive height,
powdered, and such as might be worn by bourgeoises without appearing
extraordinary.
Besides the fashions we have described, there were others from 1774 to
1789, viz. “Grecques à boucles badines” (or Greek with playful ringlets),
“à l’ingénue,” “à la conseillière,” “l’oiseau royal,” “chien couchant,”
“les parterres galants,” “les calèches retroussées,” and many others, the
description of which would fill volumes.[47]
Marie Antoinette continued to rule the fashionable world; nor can we be
surprised that the flattery of courtiership “took up the tale.” In honour
of Louis XVI.’s accession, hats were invented under the name of “delights
of the Augustan age,” and a colour called “queen’s hair,” of a pretty
blonde tint.
For many years a great rivalry had subsisted between the male and
female hair-dressers, and towards 1775 an amusing law-suit was commenced
between the former and the wig-making barbers. “We are,” contended the
hair-dressers, “essentially ladies’ hair-dressers.... What are the duties
of barbers? To shave heads, and purchase the severed hair; to give the
needful plait by means of fire and iron to locks that are no longer
living; to fix them in tresses with the help of a hammer; to arrange the
hair of a Savoyard on the head of a marquis; to remove the attribute of
their sex from masculine chins with a sharp blade; all these are purely
mechanical functions that have no connexion with our art....”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account