The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Marie Antoinette carried the fashion of “panaches” or plumes to an
extreme. If we may believe Soulavie’s memoirs of the period, “when Marie
Antoinette passed through the gallery at Versailles, one could see
nothing but a forest of waving plumes a foot and a half higher than the
ladies’ heads.” The king’s aunts, who could not make up their minds to
follow such extraordinary fashions, nor to copy the queen’s dress day by
day, used to call her feathers “ornaments for the hair.”
The majority of the court ladies, however, imitated the queen.
Hats and caps were so overladen with feathers, that not only were coaches
too small to contain the plumed dames of the period, but ladies were
fain to bend their heads in the “entresols” of certain suites of rooms,
because of the lowness of the ceilings.
“Nevertheless,” says a lady of the court, “it was a fine sight to see
that forest of plumes in the Versailles Gallery, waving with the least
breath of air. It looked liked a moving garden of bright-coloured
flowers, gently caressed by the zephyrs.”
There was, however, a party in opposition. According to Mme. Campan,
“mothers and husbands grumbled, and there was a general feeling that the
queen would ruin all the French ladies.” But discontent and criticism
were vain; Fashion as usual had her way, and feathers sometimes fetched
as much as fifty louis (1250 francs) apiece.
Generally speaking, the smallest caprices of Marie Antoinette were
received as law by the ladies of the court. When, on the occasion of the
birth of one of her children, her beautiful fair hair was cut off, and
she consequently adopted a “coiffure basse,” the “coiffure à l’enfant,”
or baby’s head-dressing, immediately became the rage. No one could be
found to say a word against it, nor to hesitate at sacrificing her
hair to the prevailing fashion. There were, nevertheless, many styles
of dressing the hair: “au plaisir des dames” (the ladies’ pleasure),
“à l’urgence” (the urgent), and “à la paresseuse” (the idle). At the
same time various hats came into fashion, viz. the “artiste” (the
artist), the “grandes prétentions,” (great pretensions), the “bandeau
d’amour” (the bandeau of love), the “Carmelite,” the “lever de la reine”
(Queen’s lever), the “novice de Cythère” (the Cytherean novice), and the
“prêtresse de Vénus” (the priestess of Venus). The hat “à la révolte” was
so called in allusion to the Flour warfare, or Grain disturbances, under
Turgot.
When Marie Antoinette took a fancy for playing at shepherdesses and a
so-called rural life at Trianon, the great ladies of Versailles dressed
their hair “à la laitière” (milkmaid) and “à la paysanne de la cour”
(court peasant). The Parisians, on the contrary, wore successively
hats “à la Suzanne” (from _Le Mariage de Figaro_), “à la Randon” (from
_Bayard_, a play by Monvel), and “à la diadème,” or turban-shaped.
In the early summer of 1775, the queen made her appearance in a gown of a
kind of chestnut-brown, and the king said laughingly,—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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