The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
We must also mention wigs “à l’Aspasie,” “à la Vénus,” “à la Turque,”
Greek and Roman wigs, art head-dresses in the style of Sappho; “Doisy”
nets, linked tiaras formed of the glittering links of a threefold chain
of gold; and “les cheveux baignés,” that is, the real hair, worn with a
diamond crescent.
By way of ornament, dressmakers frequently made use of small pieces of
gold, silver, copper, or steel, very thin, and with a hole in the middle;
they were generally of circular shape, were sewed on to the material, and
called spangles.
Thence the popular song:—
“Paillette aux bonnets,
Aux toquets,
Aux petits corsets!
Paillette
Aux fins bandeaux,
Aux grands chapeaux!
Paillette
Aux noirs colliers,
Aux blancs souliers!
Paillette,
Paillette aux rubans,
Aux turbans.
On ne voit rien sans
Paillette!”[50]
All the adjuncts of dress remind us of antique times; we may note the
shape of shoes in particular—when, indeed, women were not satisfied with
wearing gold rings on their feet. It is curious to remark how greatly
shoes resembled sandals, only partially covering the upper part of the
foot. They consisted of a light sole, fastened to the leg by ribbons.
Coppe was the principal “cothurnus” maker, and was said to lend to that
class of foot-covering “inconceivable colouring, freshness, eloquence,
and poetry!”
Dresses called “Athenian” were made of diaphanous material. They were
open at the sides, from the waist to the lower edge of the tunic. Gowns
made with trains were worn for walking.
The celebrated Eulalie was particularly clever at drawing the long trains
of gowns “à l’Omphale” through the sash. If any one presumed to assert
that from their feet to their heads women were too little clothed, they
would reply,—
“Le diamant seul doit parer
Des attraits que blesse la laine.”[51]
Their light attire exposed them to diseases of the chest, nay, to death
itself, but they braved all dangers for the sake of Fashion. The gold
rings shining on their feet could not protect them from the cold of
winter, and yet they remained faithful to gauze-veiled nudity. A fashion
of wearing no chemise lasted only one week.
In consequence of the depreciation of the paper currency, sixty-four
francs in assignats was charged for the making of two caps; gauze for
three caps cost 100 francs; two dozen cambric-muslin pocket-handkerchiefs
cost 2400 francs; a brown silk gown, 1040 francs; and a batiste gown
edged with silk, 2500 francs.
This was in 1795. A year later an embroidered tarlatan mantle cost 7000
francs; the making of a cap cost 300 francs; a gown and a fan, 20,000
francs; and the silk for a mantle, 3000 francs.
These extraordinary prices rose higher still as the value of the paper
currency diminished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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