The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
This sort of passing enthusiasm recurred very frequently; and no sooner
had a book or a circumstance obtained the notice of the public, than it
received consecration, as it were, from the fashionable world. From 1822
to 1830 the following colours were in fashion: “Ipsiboé,” “Trocadéro,”
“bronze,” “smoke,” “Nile-water,” “solitary,” “reed,” “mignonette-seed,”
“amorous toad,” “frightened mouse,” “spider meditating crime,” &c.
The eighteenth century seemed to have come back, in the matter of
designations at any rate.
A paroxysm of splendid extravagance was occasioned by the coronation of
Charles X.
Hair-dressers travelled post to Rheims for the ceremony, and were
besieged by their fair clients. During the night preceding the
coronation, one of them dressed the hair of more than five and twenty
ladies, at a charge of forty francs apiece.
We must not content ourselves with a mere mention of leg-of-mutton
sleeves, they deserve a longer notice, by reason of their own long and
absolute reign.
Leg-of-mutton sleeves first appeared in 1820, and attained by degrees to
such enormous size, that a woman of fashion could not pass through a door
of ordinary dimensions. They were kept in shape by whalebones, or by a
sort of balloon stuffed with down.
Such a sleeve exactly resembled the joint of meat from which it took its
name. An extraordinary fashion, indeed! It is hard to understand the
“good taste” that presided at its invention.
And yet the whole dress of woman soon became centred, as it were, in the
leg-of-mutton sleeve. There could be nothing to harmonize in the rest of
a costume, with sleeves that preponderated as much as the paniers of old,
and the steel crinolines of twenty-five years ago. We can but laugh when
we examine some portraits of the period.
There were some slight changes in the fashions in the reign of Charles
X., from 1824 to 1830, attributable generally to incidents of the
day, or to popular plays or novels. Colours, crape, head-dresses,
and turbans were named after “Ipsiboé,” a romance of passion by the
Vicomte d’Arlincourt; there were Trocadéro ribbons, in honour of the
Duc d’Angoulême’s campaign in Spain; “Elodie” blue, and Scotch plaids
“à la Dame Blanche,” after Boïeldieu’s fine opera; and extraordinary
whimsicalities, “à la wonderful lamp,” “à l’Emma,” “à la Marie Stuart,”
and “à la Clochette.” Bonnets with large hollow brims, feathers and
ribbons, Sultana turbans, “berêts,” and caps of Chantilly blond, were
still worn.
Numbers of fashionable women wore a “sentiment” round their throats, or
a “carcan necklace” of velvet, or bows either of fur or curled feathers.
Gowns barely reached to the ankles; they were trimmed with gauze, blond,
bows of ribbon, bands of velvet, twists of satin; feather-fringe and
ornaments were sewn on to the material.
The short skirts of 1828 caused the boots we had copied from the English
to be appreciated; they were both comfortable and sightly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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