The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Then the Revolution of 1789 broke out. With a crash the past fell to
the ground, and tastes, instincts, and manners were changed by an
irresistible force; no longer were the reminiscences of the old Monarchy
evoked, but those of the Greek and Roman Republics, and Frenchwomen
endeavoured to copy the customs of those two nations, and chose to dress
themselves like the women of antiquity.
Nor did they give up their ideas even under the First Empire. All the
little attractions, and graces, of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries were non-existent for our modern Cornelias, for the disciples
of Sappho, and the imitators of Lucretia.
There were no original ideas; nothing but recollections, and imitations,
and the poorest copies. When we borrow from antiquity, we seldom do so
successfully, there are generally discrepancies which destroy all the
meaning of the original.
After the fall of the First Empire at Waterloo, the fifteen years of
the Restoration and the eighteen years of the July Monarchy witnessed a
return to monarchical customs, and to ancient habits. Fashion “restored”
the Middle Ages, and the attire of the “châtelaines,” and, as we have
shown, Romanticism in Literature and Art was exemplified in dress.
At this period, the middle classes, after struggling against authority,
assumed in their turn the reins of government, and dress was greatly
influenced by “bourgeois” tastes. Romanticism gradually disappeared,
and the prevailing fashions were entirely distinct from the art and
literature of the period.
Nobody can now recall the gowns with leg-of-mutton sleeves, without
laughing, and the bonnets of the period closely resembled the hoods of
cabriolets.
The revolution of 1848, left no trace on the history of dress. But after
the establishment of the second Empire, the splendour of the new court
recalled the days of the Regency and those of the Directory combined.
A craving for display turned the heads of all, and Frenchwomen became
conspicuous in the eyes of Europe, by a succession of lavish, and
unbridled whims. In vain did certain philosophers once again protest
against such immoderate luxury.
At length, after the disasters of 1870, a more chastened spirit appeared
to prevail, and former follies to have passed away; simplicity was aimed
at, as it had been in 1780. But this calm was of short duration, and in
a very short time new fashions and passing fancies were as prevalent as
ever.
In proportion as France became once more self-reliant, her government
stable, and her finances prosperous, the love for fine clothes spread
among women of every rank, and the International Exhibition of 1878,
having produced the immense effect we have already noted, an era of
cosmopolitism was inaugurated, and certain peculiarities of fashion were
borrowed from the most distant nations.
This is the point we have reached, as I pen these lines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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