The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Beware of being the inventress
Of new attire, for many a sinner
Might make thee her exemplar.
If thou would please God and the world,
Wear the dress that denotes simplicity
In honesty.”
[14] A cord twisted so as to form a figure of ∞ was called a _lac
d’amour_, or love-knot.—_Translator’s note._
[15]
“Heavens! how satisfied she was
With her good looks that day!
With all her dainty graces!
Look you, she had a bodice
Of the finest sky-blue, laced
With a lace of yellow, made for her.
And then she had sleeves of green
Of rich stuff, and a gown
Both wide and open.
...
Black hosen, little slippers,
White linen, a looped girdle,
And a fair kerchief on her head-dress.”
[16]
“For one coat that the wife of a bourgeois wears
The great lady puts on three, one over the other;
And letting them all be seen equally,
She makes herself known for more than a bourgeoise.”
[17]
“There was a time, before these customs,
When women were wise.”
[18]
“The ‘vertugal’ we will have,
Spite of them and their false envy;
And the busk at the breast we will wear;
Is it not a pretty usage?”
[19]
“The large vertugadin is common to all Frenchwomen;
The bourgeoises wear it freely now,
Just the same as the great ladies, if it be not
That the bourgeoise is content with a smaller one;
For the great ladies are not satisfied
With a vertugadin less than five yards wide.”
[20]
“Netted hair and hawk-bright eye.”
[21]
“Men and women out of pride
Starch their long ruffs until they find no equal;
But in hell the devil will blow (the bellows),
And the fire will be lighted to burn souls.”
[22]
“Velvet, grown too common in France,
Resumes, beneath your sway, its former honour;
So that your remonstrance
Has made us see the difference
Between the servant and his lord,
And the coxcomb, silk-bedecked,
Who equalled your princes,
And rich in cloth of silk went glittering
On his way, showing off the bravery of his attire.
I have more indulgence for our fair women
Who, in dresses far too precious,
Usurp the rank of the nobles.
But now, the long-despised wool
Resumes its former station.”
[23]
“That little popinjay,
Curled, ruffed, and milk-skinned,
Whose shining face
Puts even his mirror to shame,
And his delicate skin
Outdoes the tints of a picture;
That coxcomb whose mode of speech
Is mincing, soft, and lisping,
And whose foot when he walks
Would not crack an eggshell,
Took a fancy, the other day,
To marry Marie.
She was dressed almost as gaily
As her gallant.
And when they came to church,
The priest, looking at them,
Asked, jestingly:
‘Which of you two is the husband?’”
[24]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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