The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
This fashion passed away as political adventures gradually ceased. But
in 1695 it still prevailed. “With regard to ladies,” says the “Traité de
la Civilité,” published in Paris, “it is well to know that in addition
to the curtsey, they have other means, such as the mask, the coif, and
the gown, with which they can express respect; for it is reckoned uncivil
for a lady to enter the room of a person deserving of consideration
with dress tucked up, face masked, and coif on head, unless the coif
be transparent. It is an incivility also to keep on her mask in any
place where a person of eminent rank is present, by whom she might be
perceived, except when in a coach with such person. It is uncivil to keep
on the mask when curtseying to any one, unless from afar off; and even
then it must be removed for a royal personage.”
The above rules show how greatly the mask had been in use.
In 1668, women of rank always wore an under-skirt of watered or glacé
satin, with an over-skirt trailing behind, and carried over the left
arm. Sleeves were puffed, and trimmed with lace and ribbon, and scarcely
covered half the arm. They were not slashed. The bodice reaching to the
hips, and fitting tightly to the waist, ended in a point. The under-skirt
had a double border of gold and silk embroidery, while the upper one had
but a single border, like the Greek and Roman tunics.
Here and there on the bodice were trimmings of gimp and ribbon, and a
lace collerette covered the shoulders and chest.
Women generally wore pearl necklaces. Cuffs held an important place in a
carefully arranged toilet. “I have been told,” writes Furetière, “that
the wife of President Tambonneau takes a whole hour to put on her cuffs.”
Knots of ribbon were placed everywhere among lace edgings. When arranged
in tiers each side of the busk in front, they were called “échelles,” or
ladders.
On one occasion Mme. de la Reynie’s “ladders” were being spoken of with
admiration before Mme. Cornuel, who replied somewhat maliciously: “I
wonder she does not wear a gibbet as well.” M. de la Reynie was Chief of
the Police.
Ornaments of ribbon and chenille succeeded to “ladders.” Buttons were
fixed on braid or chenille, and corresponded with “freluches” or
“fanfreluches,” that is, with tufts of silk.
“Transparents” came into fashion in 1676. “Have you heard of
‘transparents’?” writes Mme. de Sévigné. “They are complete dresses
of the very finest gold or azure brocade, and over them is worn a
transparent black gown, or a gown of beautiful English lace, or of
chenille velvet, like that winter lace that you saw. These form a
‘transparent,’ which is a black dress and a gold, silver, or coloured
dress, just as one likes, and this is the fashion.”
The black lace worn on skirts was called “quilles d’Angleterre.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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