It is difficult, then, to believe that the inferior position of the
weaker sex accounts for the comparative scarcity of female ornaments.
The fact may to some extent be explained by Mr. Spencer’s suggestion,
that ornaments have partly originated from trophy-badges, and Professor
Wundt’s, that they indicate rank and fortune: but these explanations
apply only to a few cases. If it be true that man began to decorate
himself chiefly in order to stimulate the passions of the opposite sex,
we may conclude that the vanity of the men is, in the first place,
due to the likings of the women, and that the plainer appearance
of the women is a consequence of the men’s greater indifference to
their ornaments. Mr. Darwin has shown that, among our domesticated
quadrupeds, individual antipathies and preferences are exhibited much
more commonly by the female than by the male,[1107] and the same, as
we shall see, is in some measure the case with man also. It is the
women rather than the men that have to be courted. Thus, with reference
to the natives of Gippsland, Mr. Brough Smyth, on the authority of
Mr. Bulmer, states, “The ornaments worn by the females were not much
regarded by the men. The woman did little to improve her appearance;
... if her physical aspect was such as to attract admirers she was
content.”[1108]
It should also be noted that among savages it is, as a rule, the man
only that runs the risk of being obliged to lead a single life. Hence
it is obvious that to the best of his ability he must endeavour to
be taken into favour by making himself as attractive as possible. In
civilized Europe, on the other hand, the opposite occurs. Here it is
the woman that has the greatest difficulty in getting married—and she
is also the vainer of the two.
The hypothesis as to the origin of the customs in question, set forth
in this chapter, presupposes of course that savage girls enjoy great
liberty in the choice of a mate. It will be seen subsequently that
there can be no doubt as to the accuracy of that presumption.
At a higher stage of civilization the tendency of mankind is to give
up savage ornaments, and no longer to regard mutilations of the body
as improving the appearance. In Persia, women still wear the nose-ring
through one side of the nostril,[1109] but to a European such a custom
would be extremely displeasing. In the Western world the ear-ring is
the last vanishing relic of savage taste.
* * * * *
From the naked body the ornaments were transferred to clothing, partly
because climate made clothes necessary, partly for another reason. “A
savage begins,” Professor Moseley says, “by painting or tattooing
himself for ornament. Then he adopts a movable appendage, which he
hangs on his body, and on which he puts the ornamentation which he
formerly marked more or less indelibly on his skin. In this way he is
able to gratify _his taste for change_.”[1110]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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