The History of Java, v. 1-2Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
History
The History of Java, v. 1-2
Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
Java (Indonesia) -- History
In the court or full dress, the shoulders, arms, and body, down to
the waist, are entirely bare; the drapery descending from the loins
downwards, _chelána_, and what may be worn on the head, being the only
covering. When a subject, whatever be his rank or family, approaches
his prince, he must wear _chelána_ or pantaloons of coloured silk or of
fine cotton, without buttons; and instead of the _járit_ or ordinary
cloth, he must wear the _dódot_, a cloth which is of nearly double the
dimensions. This is put on, however, nearly in the same manner as the
_járit_, but so as not to descend on the right side further than just
below the knee, while on the left it falls in a rich drapery, until it
touches the ground in a point. The _sábuk_ or waistband must be of gold
lace, the fringed ends of which usually hang down a few inches, and the
party must only wear one _krís_, which is tucked in the waistband on
the right side behind, while on the left he wears a weapon, or rather
implement, called a _wédung_, in the shape of a chopper, together with
a small knife, indicative of his readiness to cut down trees and grass
at the order of his sovereign. On his head he must wear a peculiar kind
of cap (_kuluk_), said to have been introduced by the Sultan _Pájang_
in imitation of the scull-cap of the Arabs; it is made of cloth,
and either white or light blue, stiffened with rich starch: on more
ordinary occasions, and generally, except in full dress, the chiefs
prefer a cap of the same form made of black velvet, ornamented with
gold, and sometimes a diamond on the crown. The part of the body which
is left uncovered is generally rubbed over with white or yellow powder.
The sovereign himself is usually habited in the same manner on state
occasions, his body and arms being covered with a bright yellow powder.
When women approach the sovereign, besides having their hair ornamented
with diamonds and flowers, they must wear a _sémbong_ or sash round
the waist, which generally is of yellow silk with red at the two ends.
It is brought once round the body from behind, and the long ends are
allowed to descend towards the ground, one over each hip.
Since the loss of the _makóta_, or golden crown of _Majapáhit_,
which disappeared on the banishment of _Susúnan Mangkúrat_, both the
_Susúnan_ and _Sultan_, on public occasions, when they have to meet the
European authorities, wear a velvet hat or cap of a particular fashion,
somewhat different at each court; that of the _Susúnan_ resembling
what is distinguished by the term of the Madúra hat in consequence
of its being still worn by the Madúra family, and that of the Sultan
having a golden _garúda_ affixed at the back, and two wings of gold
extending from behind the ears. They both wear breeches, stockings, and
buckles, after the European fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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