The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
Pliny, in his account of goats[380], says, “In Cilicia and about the
Syrtes they are covered with hair, which admits of being shorn.” From
this it may be inferred, in conformity with the testimonies already
cited from Varro and Virgil, that the longest and best goats’-hair was
obtained in Cilicia, and on the coast of Africa opposite to Sicily and
Malta, the modern Tripoli. It is remarkable, that Virgil, in order to
designate the latter district, refers to the romantic river Cinyps,
which flowed through it, observing the same practice, which we have
seen to be so common with the poets in regard to the countries noted
for the produce of the most excellent wool. In the interior and more
hilly portion of this district of Africa both sheep and goats are still
reared[381].
[380] L. viii. c. 76. See Appendix A.
[381] Proceedings of the Expedition to explore the Northern Coast of
Africa from Tripoli Eastward, by Beechey, ch. iv. p. 73. In the
same chapter, p. 52. 62-68, is an account of the Wad’el Khahan, the
ancient Cinyps.
The geographer Avienus asserts that goats’-hair was obtained for the
purpose of being _woven_ in the country of the Cynetæ in Spain[382].
Isidore of Seville, in his enumeration of the different kinds of
cloth (_Orig._ xix. 22.), uses the following expressions: “Fibrini
(vestis est) tramam de fibri lanâ habens: caprina.” Thus the text
now stands, evidently defective. The writer no doubt alluded to a
kind of cloth called _caprina_, because goats’-hair was used in the
manufacture of it. Beckmann (_History of Inventions_, _Eng. Trans._,
_vol._ iv. _p._ 224.) proposes to read, “tramam de fibri lanâ habens,
stamen de caprinâ,” i. e. “having the woof of beaver-wool, the warp
of goats’-wool.” But the ancients were unacquainted with the fine
wool of certain goats, and it is highly improbable, that they used
goats’-_hair_ in the case referred to, since the “Vestes Fibrinæ” were
of great value, as will soon be shown, and not made in any part of
coarse materials.
[382] _Rufi Festi Avieni Ora Maritima_, l. 218-221.
The cloth of goats’-hair would be suitable for sailors, both on account
of their hardy mode of life, and because it was better adapted than any
other kind to bear exposure to water.
Its use as clothing to express mourning and mortification will be
noticed presently.
The employment of goats’-hair for military and naval purposes was
far more extensive, and is proved by the following passage from the
Geoponica (xviii. 9.) in addition to the former testimonies.
Προσοδόυς δίδωσιν οὐκ ὀλίγας, τὰς ἀπὸ γάλακτος καὶ τύρου καὶ (σἀρκός)·
πρὸς δὲ τούτοις τὰς ἀπὸ τῆς τριχός. ἡ δὲ θρὶξ ἀναγΚαία πρός τε σχοίνους
καὶ σάκκους, καὶ τὰ τούτοις παραπλήσια, καὶ εἰς ναυτικὰς ὑπηρεσίας,
οὔτε κοπτόμενα ῥᾳδίως, οὔτε σηπόμενα φυσικῶς, ἐὰν μὴ λίαν κατολιγωρηθῇ.
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