The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
Isidorus Hispalensis--Claudian--Beckmann--Beavers’-wool--Dispersion of
Beavers through Europe--Fossil bones of Beavers.
The passage quoted from Isidore of Seville, in the last chapter, shows
that the ancients made a cloth, the woof of which was of Beavers’-wool
(_de fibri lanâ_), and which was therefore called _Vestis Fibrina_.
By _lana_ he must have meant the very fine wool, which, agreeably to
the observation in the last paragraph, grows under the long hair of
the beaver. Isidore in the same Book, observes, “Fibrinum lana est
animalium, quæ fibros vocant: ipsos et castores existimant.”
The following Epigram of Claudian seems intended, as Beckmann (iv. _p._
223.) supposes, to describe “a worn-out beaver dress, which had nothing
more left of that valuable fur but the name.”
ON A BEAVER MANTLE.
The shadow of its ancient name remains:
But, if no nap of beaver it retains,
A Beaver Mantle it can scarce be nam’d.
The price, however, proves its claim: it cost
Six pounds. Hence, though all lustre it has lost,
Yet, bought so dear, as beaver let it still be fam’d.
Sidonius Apollinaris calls those who used this costly apparel
_castorinati_. _Lib._ v. _Epist._ 7. _p._ 313. _Paris_, 1599, 4_to._
Gerbert, or Gilbert, surnamed the Philosopher, and afterwards Pope
Silvester II., commenting on the qualities of a good Bishop according
to 1 Timothy iii. 1., says in reference to the word “ornatum:”
“Quod si juxta sensum literæ tantûm respiciamus, non aliud,
sacerdotes, quam amictum quæremus clariorem; verbi gratiâ, castorinas
quæremus et sericas vestes: et ille se inter episcopas credet esse
altiorem, qui vestem induerit clariorem. Sed S. Apostolus taliter
se intelligi non vult, quia non carne, &c.”--_De Informatione
Episcoporum, seu De Dignitate Sacerdotali, in ed. Benedict. Opp. S.
Ambrosii, tom._ ii. _p._ 358.
“An upper garment of this cloth was worn by the Emperor Nicephorus II.
at his coronation in the year 936.”--_Beckmann_, _l. c._ § 31.
“This method of manufacturing beavers’-hair,” observes Beckmann, “seems
not to have been known in the time of Pliny; for, though he speaks much
of the _castor_, and mentions _pellis fibrina_ three times, he says
nothing in regard to manufacturing the hair, or to beaver-fur.”
It seems probable, that the Greeks and Romans did not use cloth of
beavers’-wool until the 4th century. In an earlier age the furs and
drugs supplied by beavers were obtained from the countries to the
North of the Euxine Sea. But in the period now under consideration
the intercourse of the Romans with the West of Europe would open a
much more extended sphere for procuring the Vestes Fibrinæ, since we
have traces of the existence of beavers in almost all parts of Europe.
Their appearance in Wales, Scotland, Germany, and the North of Europe
generally, is attested by Giraldus Cambrensis[393].
[393] Topographia Hiberniæ, c. 21, and Itinerarium Cambriæ, l. ii. c. 3.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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