The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
Fortunatus, in his life of St. Martin (l. iv.), describes a garment of
such cloth; but it may be doubted whether he took his description from
actual knowledge of the use of it, or only from the account in Matthew
of the dress of John the Baptist already quoted.
Camels’-hair of annual growth would vary in fineness according to
circumstances, and might be used either for the coarse raiment of
prophets and dervises, _or for the costly shawls_, to which Ctesias
alludes. Fine wool, adapted to the latter purpose, might also grow,
as in the goat and beaver, beneath the long hair of the camel. It has
been doubted whether cloth so fine and beautiful as Ctesias asserts,
could possibly be obtained from camels. The following accounts by
modern travellers illustrate and justify the statement of the suspected
ancient.
Marco Polo, who travelled in the 13th century, in his account of the
city of Kalaka, which was in the province of Tangut and subject to
the Great Kahn, says[408], “In this city they manufacture beautiful
camelots, the finest known in the world, of the hair of camels and
likewise of fine wool.” According to Pallas, (Travels, vol. ii. § 8.,)
“From the hair of the camel the Tartar women in the plains of the
Crimea manufacture a narrow cloth, which is used in its natural color,
and is extremely warm, soft, and light.” According to Prosper Alpinus,
(_Hist. Nat. Ægypti_, _l._ iv. _c._ 7. _p._ 225.) the Egyptians
manufactured from the hair of their camels not only coarse cloth for
their tents, but other kinds so fine as to be worn not only by princes
but even by the senators of Venice.
[408] Book i. ch. 52. p. 235. of Marsden’s Translation.
Elphinstone, in his account of Cabul (_p._ 295.), mentions, that
“Oormuck, a fine cloth made of camels’-wool,” is among the articles
imported into Cabul from the Bokhara country. This country lies North
of the Oxus, and East of the Southern extremity of the Caspian Sea, and
is probably the country, to which Ctesias more especially referred.
A still more recent authority is that of Moorcroft, who informs us,
that “Cloth is now made from the wool of the wild camels of Khoten in
Chinese Tartary,” and that “at Astrakhan a fine cloth is manufactured
from the wool of the camel foal of the first year[409].”
[409] Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. i. p. 241, 242.
It is customary in many parts of the East, as it was in Mexico in
the time of Cortes (See Part Third, Chapter I.) to use the hair of
various animals in embroidering garments. The Candian women even
embroider with their own hair, as well as that of animals, with
which they make splendid representations of flowers, foliage, &c.:
they also insert the skins of eels and serpents.
According to M. de Busson, the negresses of Senegal, embroider
the skins of various beasts, representing figures, flowers, and
animals, in every variety of color.
[Illustration:
Plate V.
Drawn from the life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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