The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
[64] In the Royal Museum of Natural History at Leyden are eight or ten
cocoons of the Phalæna Atlas from Java. They consist of a strong
silk, and are formed upon the leaves of a kind of Ficus. The first
layer of the cocoon covers the whole of a leaf, and receives the
exact impress of its form. Then two or three other layers are
distinctly perceptible. Two or three leaves are joined together to
form the cocoon. In regard to the looseness of the layers these
cocoons do not correspond to M. Breton’s description of the cocoons
of the wild silk-worms of China, which are very strong and compact,
and therefore more resemble those of the Phalæna Paphia.
FIFTH CENTURY.
PRUDENTIUS, CL., A. D. 405.
The following sentence occurs in a speech of St. Lawrence at his
martyrdom:
Hunc, qui superbit serico,
Quem currus inflatum vehit;
Hydrops aquosus lucido
Tendit veneno intrinsecus.
_Peristeph. Hymn._ ii. _l._ 237-240.
See him, attir’d in silken pride,
Inflated in his chariot ride;
The lucid poison works within,
Dropsy distends his swollen skin.
In another Hymn to the honor of St. Romanus we find the following lines:
Aurum regestum nonne carni adquiritur?
Inlusa vestis, gemma, bombyx, purpura,
In carnis usum mille quæruntur dolis.
_Peristeph. Hymn._ x.
To please the flesh a thousand arts contend:
The miser’s heaps of gold, the figur’d vest,
The gem, the silk-worm, and the purple dye,
By toil acquir’d, promote no other end.
In the same Hymn (_l._ 1015.) Prudentius describes a heathen priest
sacrificing a bull, and dressed _in a silken toga_ which is held up by
the Gabine cincture (_Cinctu Gabino Sericam fultus togam_). Perhaps,
however, we ought here to understand that the cincture only, not the
whole toga, was of silk. It was used to fasten and support the toga by
being drawn over the breast.
In two other passages this poet censures the progress of luxury in
dress, and especially when adopted by men.
Sericaque in fractis fluitent ut pallia membris
_Psychomachia, l._ 365.
The silken scarfs float o’er their weaken’d limbs.
Sed pudet esse viros: quærunt vanissima quæque
Quîs niteant: genuina leves ut robora solvant,
Vellere non ovium, sed Eoo ex orbe petitis
Ramorum spoliis fluitantes sumere amictus,
Gaudent, et durum scutulis perfundere corpus.
Additur ars, ut fila herbis saturata recoctis
Inludant varias distincto stamine formas.
Ut quæque est lanugo feræ mollissima tactu,
Pectitur. Hunc videas lascivas præpete cursu
Venantem tunicas, avium quoque versicolorum
Indumenta novis texentem plumea telis:
Ilium pigmentis redolentibus, et peregrino
Pulvere femineas spargentem turpitur auras.
_Hamartigenia, l._ 286-298.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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