The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
The breeding of silk-worms in Europe appears to have been confined
to Greece from the time of the Emperor Justinian until the middle of
the twelfth century. The manufacture of silk was also very rare in
other parts of Europe, being probably practised only as a recreation
and accomplishment for ladies. But in the year 1148 Roger I., King of
Sicily, having taken the cities of Corinth, Thebes, and Athens, thus
got into his power a great number of silk-weavers, took them away
with the implements and materials necessary for the exercise of their
art, and forced them to reside at Palermo[86]. Nicetas Choniates[87],
referring to the same event, speaks of these artisans as of both sexes,
and remarks that in his time those who went to Sicily might see the
sons of Thebans and Corinthians employed in weaving velvet stoles
_interwoven with gold_, and serving like the Eretrians of old among the
Persians[88].
[86] Otto Frisingen, Hist. Imp. Freder. l. i. c. 33. in Muratori, Rerum
Italicarum Scriptores, tom. vi. p. 668.
[87] In Manuel Comnenus, l. ii. c. 8., tom. xii. of the Scriptores
Hist. Byzantinæ, p. 51. ed. Ven.
[88] Hugo Falcandus, who visited this manufactory A. D. 1169,
represents it as being then in the most flourishing condition,
producing great quantities of silks, both plain and figured, of
many different colors, and enriched with gold.
We find in the writings of Ingulphus several curious accounts of
vestments of silk, interwoven with eagles and flowers of gold. This
author, in his history, mentions that among other gifts made by Witlaf,
king of Mercia, to the abbey of Croyland, he presented _a golden
curtain, embroidered with the siege of Troy_, to be hung up in the
church on his birth-day[89]. At a later period, 1155, a pair of richly
worked sandals, and three mitres, the work of Christina, abbess of
Markgate, were among the valuable souvenirs presented by Robert, abbot
of St. Albans, to Pope Adrian IV.[90].
[89] Ingulphus, p. 487, edit. 1596.
[90] Adrian IV., was the only Englishman that ever sat in St. Peters
chair. His name was Nicolas Breakspear: he was born of poor parents
at Langley, near St. Albans. Henry II., on his promotion to the
papal chair, sent a deputation of an abbot and three bishops to
congratulate him on his election; upon which occasion he granted
considerable privileges to the abbey of St. Albans. With the
exception of the presents named above, he refused all the other
valuable ones which were offered him, saying jocosely,--“I will
not accept your gifts, because when I wished to take the habit of
your monastery you refused me.” To which the abbot pertinently
and smartly replied,--“It was not for us to oppose the will of
Providence, which had destined you for greater things.”
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