The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
VI. The binding of ancient manuscripts affords specimens of silk. A
French translation of Ludolphus Saxo’s Life of Christ in four folio
volumes, among Dr. William Hunter’s MSS. at Glasgow, still has its
original binding covered with red velvet, which is probably as old as
the _fourteenth_ century. A curious source of information on the art
of book-binding at that period is the Inventory, or Catalogue of the
library collected by that ardent lover of books, Charles V. of France.
As this catalogue particularly describes the bindings of about 1200
volumes, many of which were very elaborate and splendid, it enables us
to judge of the use made of all the most valuable stuffs and materials
which could be employed for this purpose, and under the head of silk we
find the following: “soie,” silk; “veluyau,” velvet; “satanin,” satin;
“damas,” damask; “taffetas,” taffetas; “camocas;” “cendal;” and “drap
d’or,” cloth of gold, having probably a basis or ground of silk[103].
From the few examples of ancient Catholic vestments that have escaped
destruction, the generality of persons are but little acquainted with
the extreme beauty of the embroidery worked for ecclesiastical purposes
during the Middle Ages. The countenances of the images were executed
with perfect expression, like miniatures in illuminated manuscripts.
Every parochial church, previous to the Reformation, was furnished with
complete sets of frontals and hangings for the altars. One of the great
beauties of the ancient embroidery was its appropriate design; each
flower, leaf, and device having a significant meaning with reference
to the festival to which the vestment belonged. Such was the extreme
beauty of the English vestments in the reign of Henry III., that
Innocent IV. forwarded bulls to many English bishops, enjoining them to
send a certain quantity of embroidered vestments to Rome, for the use
of the clergy[104].
[103] See Inventaire de l’Ancienne Bibliothèque du
Louvre, fait en l’année 1373. Paris, 1836, 8vo.
[104] The art of embroidery seems to have attained a higher degree of
perfection in France, than any other country in Europe;--it is not,
however, so much practised now. Embroiderers formerly composed
a great portion of the working population of the largest towns;
laws were specially framed for their protection, some of which
would astonish the working people of the present day. They were
formed into a company as early as 1272, by Etienne Boileau, Prévot
de Paris, under their respective names of “Brodeurs, Découpeurs,
Egratigneurs, and Chasubliers.”
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