The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
[110] In Europe the nearest approach to oriental habits in regard
to dress was made by the Gauls. Their principal men wore collars,
armlets, and bracelets of gold, and clothes enriched with the same
metal.--_Strabo_, L. iv. cap. 4. § 5.
The history of Alexander the Great affords frequent traces of the use
of cloth _interwoven with gold_ in Persia. Garments made of such cloth
were among the most splendid of the spoils of Persepolis[111].
[111] _Diod. Sic._ L. xvii. 70. _p._ 214. _Wessel._
Justin (L. xii.) says that Alexander, to avoid offending the Persians,
ordered his principal attendants to adopt for their dress “longam
vestem auream purpureamque.” The dress prescribed was therefore of fine
woollen cloth, or probably of silk, dyed purple, and _interwoven with
gold_. Among the vast multitudes which preceded the King of Persia
when he advanced to oppose Alexander, was the band of ten thousand
called the Immortals, whose dress was carried to the ‘ne plus ultra’
of barbaric splendor, some wearing golden collars, others “cloth
variegated with gold.” Some idea of the extravagance and pomp of the
Persians on this occasion may be formed from the following passage,
taken from Rollin’s “Ancient History.”
“The order Darius observed in his march was as follows. Before the
army were carried silver altars, on which burned the fire, called by
them sacred and eternal; and these were followed by the magi, singing
hymns, and 365 youths _in scarlet robes_. After these proceeded a
consecrated car, drawn by white horses and followed by one of an
extraordinary size, which they called “The horse of the sun.” The
equerries were dressed in white, each bearing in his hand a golden
rod. Next appeared ten sumptuous chariots, enriched with curious
sculptures in gold and silver; and then the vanguard of the horse,
composed of twelve different nations, in various armor. This body
was succeeded by those of the Persians, called “The Immortals,”
amounting to 10,000, who surpassed the rest of the barbarians in the
extravagant richness and splendor of their dress; for they all wore
_collars of gold_, and were clothed in robes _of gold tissue_, having
large sleeves, garnished with precious stones. About thirty paces from
them came the king’s relations or cousins, to the number of 15,000,
apparelled like women, and more remarkable for the pomp of their
dress than the glitter of their arms; and after these Darius attended
by his guards, seated on a chariot, as on a throne. The chariot was
enriched, on both sides, with images of the gods in gold and silver;
and from the middle of the yoke, which was covered with jewels, rose
two statues, a cubit in height; the one representing War, the other
Peace, having between them a golden eagle with wings extended. The
king was attired in _a garment of purple striped with silver_; over
which was a long robe, glittering with gold and precious stones, and
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