The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
During the periods to which the preceding evidence has allusion, it is
not probable that cloth of gold was in use among the Greeks and Romans
except to a very limited extent. Nevertheless it does not appear to
have escaped the avidity for every species of excellence, which in
early times distinguished the inhabitants of Magna Græcia. For, when
Pythagoras became a teacher of wisdom and philosophy at Crotona, among
other lessons of frugality he persuaded the matrons to put off their
“golden garments” with other fashionable ornaments, and deposit them
in the temple of Juno as offerings to the goddess[113]. In a passage
attributed to Menander we meet with the mention of a “golden or purple
chlamys” as a suitable offering to the gods[114]. Hedylus of Samos,
a writer of the same age, describes a woman of loose morals, by name
Niconoe, as wearing a tunic striped with gold (_Brunck’s Analecta_, i.
483.).
[113] Justin, L. XX. c. 4.
[114] Menandri Reliquiæ, à Meineke, p. 306. Böckh, Gr. Trag. Principes,
p. 157.
Attalus, king of Pergamus, is said by Pliny (L. viii. cap. 48.) to have
invented the art of embroidering with gold thread[115]. Nevertheless
we have seen, that gold was thus used long before the time of Attalus.
But there can be no doubt, that he established and maintained a great
manufacture of these stuffs at Pergamus; thus contributing greatly to
improve the art, and bring these cloths into more general use.
[115] See Appendix A.
The next passage is from Dr. Bostock’s translation of the 33rd Book,
ch. xix. “Gold may be spun or woven like wool, without the latter being
mixed with it. We are informed by Verrius, that Tarquinius Priscus rode
in triumph in a tunic of gold; and we have seen Agrippina, the wife
of the Emperor Claudius, when he exhibited the spectacle of a naval
combat, sitting by him covered with a robe made _entirely_ of _woven
gold_. In what are called the Attalic stuffs, the gold is woven with
some other substance. This art was the invention of one of the kings of
Asia.”
In Book xxxv. c. 36. Pliny says that Zeuxis, to display his wealth at
Olympia, caused his name to be woven _in gold_ in the compartments of
his outer garment.
Caligula once wore a tunic interwoven with gold. Heliogabalus was
far more profuse in regard to this kind of splendor. White sheets,
_interwoven with gold_, were used at the funeral obsequies of
Nero[116]. We may here observe, that the use of gold in dress almost
invariably accompanied that of silk. The same Emperors who took delight
in the one, indulged themselves with the other also. On the contrary,
Alexander Severus, as we shall show when treating of linen in Part IV.,
was economical in both these respects.
[116] Suetonius, Nero, 50.
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