The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
Alexis, in one of his comedies, introduces the Symposiarch of an Eranos
(president of a picnic) accounting with one of the subscribers who comes
to demand back his ring, and in the course of the dialogue, where
something like Falstaff’s tavern-bill is discussed, we find the prices
of several kinds of salt-fish. An omotarichos (shoulder piece of thunny)
is charged at five chalci; a dish of sea-mussels, seven chalci, of
sea-urchins, an obol, a slice of kybion, three obols, a conger eel, ten,
and another plate of broiled fish, a drachma. This comic writer[599]
rates the fish of the Nile very low, and he is quite right, for they are
generally muddy and ill-tasted, though the Copts, who have considerable
experience during Lent, contrive, by the application of much
Archestratic skill, to render some kinds of them palatable. Sophocles,
in a fragment of his lost drama of Phineus, speaks of salt-fish embalmed
like an Egyptian mummy.[600] Stock-fish, as I know to my cost, is still
a fashionable dish in the Mediterranean, especially on board ship, and
from a proverb preserved by Athenæus we find it was likewise in use
among the Athenians.[601]
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Footnote 599:
Ap. Athen. iii. 86. Cf. Herod. ii. 77.
Footnote 600:
Athen. iii. 86.
Footnote 601:
Deipnosoph. iii. 89.
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The passion of this refined people for salt-fish furnished them with an
occasion of showing their gratitude publicly. They bestowed the rights
of citizenship on the sons of Chæriphilos, a metoikos who first
introduced among them a knowledge of this sort of food.[602] A similar
feeling prompted the Dutch to erect a statue to G. Bukel, the man who
taught them to salt herrings.[603]
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Footnote 602:
Athen. iii. 90.
Footnote 603:
Goguet, Origine des Loix, i. 254.
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Without enumerating a tenth part of the other species eaten among the
Greeks, we pass to the shell-fish, of which they were likewise great
amateurs. Epicharmos, in his marriage of Hebe, supplies a curious list,
which, however, might be extended almost ad infinitum. Among these were
immense limpets, the buccinum, the cecibalos, the tethynakion, the
sea-acorn, the purple fish, oysters hard to open but easy to swallow,
mussels, sea-snails or periwinkles, skiphydria sweet to taste but
prickly to touch, large shelled razor-fish, the black conch, and the
amathitis. The conch was also called tellinè as the same poet in his
Muses observes. Alcæos wrote a song to the limpet beginning with
“Child of the rock and hoary sea.”[604]
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Footnote 604:
Athen. iii. 30, 31. Cf. Scheigh. Animadv. t. vii. p. 68, sqq.
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Boys used to make a sort of whistle of tortoise and mussel shells. These
mussels were usually broiled on the coals, and Aristophanes, very
ingenious in his similes, compares a gaping silly fellow to a mussel in
the act of being cooked.[605]
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Footnote 605:
Fragm. Babylon. 2. Brunck. Athen. iii. 33.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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