The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
CHAPTER VI.
ENTERTAINMENTS.
The man upon the creations of whose art the principal enjoyments of
Greek gourmands were based was the cook,[803] whose character and
achievements ought not perhaps to be entirely passed over. We are,
indeed, chiefly indebted for our information to the comic poets; but, in
spite of some little exaggeration, the likeness they have bequeathed to
us is probably upon the whole pretty exact.
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Footnote 803:
On famous Cooks see Max. Tyr. Dissert. v. 60. 83. Pollux, vi. 70, seq.
Athen. iii. 60.
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The Athenian cook was a singularly heterogeneous being, something
between the parasite and the professed jester; he was usually a poor
citizen, with all the pride of autochthoneïty about him, who considered
it indispensable to acquire, besides his culinary lore, a smattering of
many other kinds of knowledge, not only for the purpose of improving his
soups or ragouts, but in order, by the orations he pronounced in praise
of himself, to dazzle and allure such persons as came to the agora in
search of an artist of his class. Of course the principal source of his
oratory lay among pots and frying-pans, and the wonders effected by his
art. Philemon hits off with great felicity one of these worthies, who
desires to convey a lofty opinion of himself,—
“How strong is my desire ’fore earth and heaven,
To tell how daintily I cooked his dinner
’Gainst his return! By all Athena’s owls!
’Tis no unpleasant thing to hit the mark
On all occasions. What a fish had I—
And ah! how nicely fried! Not all bedevilled
With cheese, or browned atop, but though well done,
Looking alive, in its rare beauty dressed.
With skill so exquisite the fire I tempered,
It seemed a joke to say that it was cooked.
And then, just fancy now you see a hen
Gobbling a morsel much too big to swallow;
With bill uplifted round and round she runs
Half choking; while the rest are at her heels
Clucking for shares. Just so ’twas with my soldiers;
The first who touched the dish upstarted he
Whirling round in a circle like the hen,
Eating and running; but his jolly comrades,
Each a fish worshiper, soon joined the dance,
Laughing and shouting, snatching some a bit,
Some missing, till like smoke the whole had vanished.
Yet were they merely mud-fed river dabs:
But had some splendid scaros graced my pan,
Or Attic glaucisk, or, O saviour Zeus!
Kapros from Argos, or the conger eel,
Which old Poseidon exports to Olympos,
To be the food of gods, why then my guests
Had rivalled those above. I have, in fact,
The power to lavish immortality
On whom I please, or, by my potent art,
To raise the dead, if they but snuff my dishes!”[804]
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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