The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
Another article of female dress was the _Zoma_, a short vest fitting
close to the shape, and adorned at the bottom with fringe, as appears
from a fragment of Æschylus in the Onomasticon. A character of Menander,
too, exclaims,—“Don’t you perceive the nurse habited in her Zoma?”—for,
adds Pollux, it was generally worn by old women. An elegant woollen
dress, called _Parapechu_, white, but with purple sleeves, was imported
from Corinth, and would appear to have been much worn by the
Hetairæ.[169] Other garments seem to have been affected by the middle
class of citizens, who, being unable to dress in purple,[170] the
distinguishing colour of the wealthy and the noble, brought into fashion
the _Paruphes_ and _Paralourges_, robes adorned on either side with a
purple stripe. As much dignity is supposed to belong to ample drapery,
our citizen ladies took care not to be sparing of stuff, their dresses
trailing to the ground, and displaying numerous folds, produced
purposely at the extremity by a band passing round the edge. These
garments were generally of linen; but when a lady, in Homer, is said to
be wrapped in her shining mantle, the poet[171] is supposed to intend a
fine, light, woollen cloak, like the white burnooses of the Tunisian and
Egyptian ladies.[172]
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Footnote 169:
Poll. vii. 53. Jam παράπηχυ λήδιον vel ἱμάτιον, collatis Hesychii et
Pollucis interpretationibus, intelligi videtur dictam fuisse vestem
albam cui manicæ adpositæ essent purpureæ.—Schweig. ad Athen. xiii.
45. t. xii. p. 146.
Footnote 170:
Athen. xiii. 45. Poll. _ubi supra_.
Footnote 171:
Iliad, γ. 141.
Footnote 172:
Poll. vii. 54.
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Several sorts of dresses obtained their appellation from their colours;
as the _Crocotos_, a saffron robe of ceremony, the _Crocotion_, a
diminutive of the same; the _Omphakinon_, of the colour of unripe
grapes, which, though prescriptively appropriated to women, was much
affected by Alexander the Great. Modern ladies have delighted in
flea-coloured dresses, and, in like manner, the ancients had theirs of
asinine hue, called _Killios_, from a Doric name for the ass, and
afterwards _Onagrinos_,[173] which, if they really resembled the wild
ass in hue, must have been exceedingly beautiful. There was a scarlet
robe, with the appellation of _Coccobaphes_, the _Sisys_, a thick heavy
cloak, likewise called _Hyphandron Himation_, resembling the
_Amphimallos_, which had a double warp, and was hairy on both
sides.[174]
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Footnote 173:
Among the Dorians the ass (ὄνος) was called κίλλος, and an ass-driver
(ὀνηλάτης) κιλλακτὴρ. Poll. vii. 56.
Footnote 174:
Poll. vii. 56, seq.
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