The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
Not to extend this list of dresses beyond the patience of a milliner, we
will now pass on to the principal ornaments for the head,[175] in which
the Greek ladies evinced extraordinary taste and invention.[176] Among
these one of the most elegant was the _Ampyx_, a fillet by which they
confined their hair in front. It sometimes consisted of a piece of gold
embroidery, the place of which was often supplied by a thin plate of
pure gold, studded with jewels. Another Homeric ornament, the
_Kekruphalos_,[177] can only be alluded to as a critical puzzle which
has baffled all the commentators, in which predicament the _Plekte
anadesme_[178] also stands; all that we know being, that it found its
place in the female head-dress, though whether as a mitre or a diadem
Apollonios is unable to determine. It may possibly have been, under
another appellation, that graceful wreath or garland, consisting of
fragrant flowers interwoven or bound together by their stems, described
among female ornaments by Pollux.[179]
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Footnote 175:
Cf. Winkelmann, iv. 2. 76. Alex. Pædag. ii. 12.
Footnote 176:
Theoc. Eidyll. i. 33. Æmil. Port. Lex. Dor. in voce.
Footnote 177:
Iliad. χ. 469. Heyne in loc. Pollux. v. 95, enumerates the ἄμπυξ among
female ornaments, but without giving any description of it. Cf. Pind.
Olymp. vii. 118. Dissen. Comm. ad v. 64. Bœttiger. Pictur. Vascul. i.
87.—The κεκρύφαλος, or κροκύφαντος,, which occurs once in the Iliad,
was a female ornament for the head, unknown to the later Greeks. The
scholiast describes it as κόσμος τὶς περὶ κεφαλήν; and Damm observes
that, it was “redimiculam _vel_ reticulam quo mulieres crines
coërcent.”—1158. Heyne is equally unsatisfactory. The commentators on
Pollux. v. 95, avoid the subject altogether. Cf. Foës. Œcon. Hippoc.
p. 202.
Footnote 178:
Iliad, χ. 469. Πλεκτὴ ἀναδέσμη· οἱ μὲν διάδημα, says Apollonios, οἱ δὲ
μίτραν. Πλὴν κοσμου εἶδος περὶ τὴν κεφαλὴν. This is the basis of
Hesychius’ article. The Leyden scholia say:—ἀναδέσμη λέγεται, σειρὰ,
ἥν περὶ τοὺς κροτάφους ἀναδοῦνται· καλεῖται δ᾽ ὑπ’ ἑνίων καλανδάκη.
(In which Heyne imagines we may detect _calantica_, “a hood, hurlet,
or coif.”) Κρήδεμνον δὲ πάλιν τὸ μαφόριον.
Footnote 179:
Poll. v. 96. Iliad. σ. 595. In Homer the epithet, however, is not
πλεκτὴ but καλὴ. Hemsterhuis ad Poll. t. iv. p. 998.
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