The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 3 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 3 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
The business of the confectioner was in scarcely less request, or less
profitable, than that of the baker himself. In most cases, perhaps, the
finer kinds of pastry were made by women,[458] whose taste and skill
enabled them to gratify the lovers of delicacies with an infinite
variety of sweetmeats. The vocabulary connected with this division of
the art culinary is singularly rich, but, in many cases, conveys to our
minds very little precise information. It may be inferred, however, with
something like certainty, that the stock of an Athenian confectioner
contained most of those delicious trifles now to be found in the
establishments of their successors in London or Paris. It will,
consequently, be impossible to enumerate them, or to specify the several
ingredients which entered into their composition. It has already, I
believe, been observed, in speaking of wine, that the ancients were
exceedingly partial to sweets, which, in the making of their
confectionary, led them to the constant employment of honey. Most of
their favourite cakes contained some portion of this ingredient,[459]
sometimes, indeed, found in company with other articles apparently
little calculated to combine with it. Wine, too, and cheese, and milk,
and seeds, and the juices of vegetables, entered into the composition of
various sweetmeats, which were occasionally made to keep long, as when
intended for exportation; occasionally to be consumed at the moment, as
they issued hot from the oven or the fryingpan. To this latter class
belonged those delicate pancakes, the paste of which was poured liquid
into the fryingpan, then flooded atop with fresh honey, and sprinkled
with sesame and grated cheese.[460] The taste for the _catillus ornatus_
the Greeks appear to have borrowed from the Romans. This was a rich
cake, composed of fine flour, kneaded with lard and the juice of
lettuces, pounded in a mortar with wine, seasoned with pepper, and fried
in boiling oil.[461] Among their pastry was a sort of pie made of
vine-birds[462] and beccaficoes,[463] the undercrust of which, kneaded
with honey, was sometimes moistened at table in chicken-broth.[464]
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Footnote 458:
Poll. iii. 41.
Footnote 459:
Athen. xiv. 51, sqq.
Footnote 460:
Athen. xiv. 55.
Footnote 461:
Id. xiv. 57.
Footnote 462:
Ἀμπελίδες ἅς νῦν ἀμπελιῶνας καλοῦσιν. Poll. vi. 52.
Footnote 463:
Συκαλίδες. Aristot. Hist. Anim. viii. 3. ix. 49.
Footnote 464:
Poll. vi. 77.
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These cakes and sweetmeats were sometimes fashioned into very
extraordinary forms; one sort, for example, representing the female
breast,[465] another a perfect sphere,[466] a third the head and horns
of an ox,[467] while others were wrought into mystical figures, and
appropriated to certain festivals of the Pagan calendar. The cake called
Chærinè, made with the flour of parched wheat and honey, was bestowed as
a prize on those who, during the Pannuchia, remained awake all
night.[468]
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Footnote 465:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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