The History, Theory, and Practice of Illuminating: Condensed from 'The Art of Illuminating' by the same illustrator and authorWyatt, M. Digby (Matthew Digby), Sir
History
The History, Theory, and Practice of Illuminating: Condensed from 'The Art of Illuminating' by the same illustrator and author
Wyatt, M. Digby (Matthew Digby), Sir
Alphabet; Illumination of books and manuscripts; Initials
In regard to the proportion of Roman capital letters, it may be taken as a
general rule, that the whole of the letters, with the exception of S, J, I,
F, M, and N, are formed in squares. The top and bottom of the letters
should project the width of the thick line. The letters I and J are formed
in a vertical parallelogram, half the width of the square; the letters M
and N in a horizontal parallelogram, one third larger than the square. The
letters A, B, E, F, H, X, and Y, are either divided, or have projections
from the middle. This rule may be varied, and the division placed nearer
the top than the base of the square. Capitals in the same word should have
a space equal to half a square between them; at the beginning of a word, a
whole square, and between the divisions of a sentence two squares should be
left.
This is the general rule for the proportions of the letters; but they may
be made longer or wider, as may be deemed expedient.
The small letters are half the size of the capitals; the long lines of the
letters b, d, f, h, k, and l, are the same height as the capitals; the
tails of j, p, q, and y, descending in like proportion. The letter s is
founded on the form of two circles at a tangent to each other. These rules
are applicable to sloping as well as to upright letters. In _italic_
letters it is usual to make the capitals three times the height of the
smaller letters, and the long strokes of the small letters nearly equal to
the capitals.
The letters having been duly set out, and painted on the walls, the amateur
must next either himself encounter, or employ some experienced hand to
overcome, the technical difficulties of successfully gilding those portions
of his work he may desire to remain in gold. The following directions may
assist him; but he is not likely to succeed until practice shall have given
him considerable dexterity and confidence:--
_Gilding for Walls, &c._
The implements with which the gilder should provide himself are not
numerous, nor are they expensive, as they consist merely of a cushion of
particular form, a knife for cutting the gold-leaf, a tip for transferring
it, and a cotton ball or pad for pressing it down; these and a few brushes
are all the requisites, with the addition of an agate burnisher when
burnish gilding is desired.
The cushion is a species of palette made of wood, about 9 inches by 6
inches, having on the upper surface a covering of leather stuffed with
wool, and on the under side a loose band, through which the thumb being
passed, the cushion is kept firmly resting on the left hand. To prevent the
gold flying off (for, being extremely light, this very readily takes
place), a margin of parchment is fixed on the edge of the cushion, rising
about three inches, and enclosing it on three sides. The knife very much
resembles a palette-knife, the blade is about four inches long and half an
inch wide, perfectly straight, and cutting on one edge only.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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