The Holy Land and SyriaCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Religion
The Holy Land and Syria
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The average shoe shop is about fifteen feet wide, ten feet deep, and
twelve feet in height. The stock is hung to wooden nails driven into the
walls both in and outside the shop. The men customers stand in the street
and try on the shoes without the assistance of the merchant. The women
examine the shoes through the eye slits of their veils and guess at the
sizes.
A very odd boot is that worn by the Bedouins. It is of goatskin dyed
yellow or red and has heels of camelhide with an iron strip running round
each of them. This boot reaches half way to the knee. None of the shoes
is made by machinery, and most of them are sewed rather than pegged.
How would you like to have your hat blocked, ironed, and brushed for a
cent? That is what you can do in Damascus. The hat bazaar has scores of
shops for the purpose. The most common cap is the red fez, a round felt
bowl which fits tight around the head without rim or brim. It is about
five inches high, and must be pressed every few days to keep it in shape.
The hatter has a zinc-covered table in which are several small holes
filled with fires of burning charcoal. He has brass frames or blocks over
which the caps fit, and shells of metal which may be clamped upon them to
hold the fez in form. After this the frame is laid over one of the fires,
and in a moment the heat gives the cap the latest and most fashionable
shape.
Other bazaars are devoted to the selling of silks and still others to the
finest of cloths. The wealthier Mohammedans have their long robes made of
the best possible stuffs, for they delight in rich garments. The women
shop in these bazaars. They peep out through their veils as they examine
the goods and will bargain an hour in buying a needle. I am told that
they sometimes raise their veils to entice the merchants to lower their
prices, but if so, I have not seen them, and I have been told by my guide
that if I wish to keep my head on my shoulders I had best turn my eyes in
another direction.
There is one Damascus bazaar where I walk carefully, and as far as
possible keep in midstreet. It is called the Louse Market, and you may
know why when I tell you that it is devoted to second-hand clothes. The
bazaar is just back of the citadel and not far from the Straight Street.
From morning until evening it is filled with customers and dealers;
auctioneers walk back and forth through it, each carrying a garment which
he holds up, asking for bids. He praises his goods to the skies and tells
the crowd that he is willing to sell them for a song.
Yesterday I spent a short time in the booksellers’ bazaar, but my guide
Shammas dragged me away, fearing that we might be insulted and mobbed.
The dealers are such strict Mohammedans that they do not wish even to
sell to the Christians. The shops are near the gate of the Great Mosque
and among their wares are many copies of the Koran. Picking one up, I
asked the merchant the price.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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