The Holy Land and SyriaCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Religion
The Holy Land and Syria
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Entering, we go through a high-arched door past a ledge cut into the wall
at the right where Mohammedan officers smoke long-stemmed water-pipes
while they sit with their legs crossed and direct the soldiers posted
here to keep the crowds in order. We go into a great square vestibule in
the centre of which, with rows of immense candles at its head and foot,
there lies under a long row of beautiful brass lamps a rectangular stone
of rose-coloured marble about eight feet long and four feet wide. It is
four inches above the floor, and around its edges burn the wax tapers of
worshippers. This is the Stone of Unction on which it is said the body of
the Lord was laid when it was anointed for burial.
Pilgrim after pilgrim walks forward and prostrates himself before it.
Each one gets down on his knees, and bows his head to the floor, then
leans over and kisses the stone. As we come closer we see that the
marble has been worn rough by the pressure of human lips. As we stand
and watch the earnest worshippers who pray before it, we cannot but be
impressed with their faith. An old peasant woman in black, who trembles
as she puts her long thin hands caressingly on the marble, bends over
and touches it again and again with her withered lips. A pretty boy of
ten crosses himself and kneels beside his Armenian mother while they go
through their devotions together. Another pilgrim lays his beads on the
slab, that they may be blessed by the contact, and crosses himself as he
rises. Now there kneels a family of Greeks, the men in the ballet-girl
costume of the Albanians, followed by a richly dressed lady who lays some
cakes of incense on the slab, and prays long before it. Behind her come
two Russian women with long strips of white linen in their hands. Waiting
until the crowd has partially thinned, they measure the stone with this
cloth, and cut it into strips of just the size of the slab. They rub
these strips over the stone, praying as they do so, for these are to be
their winding sheets, and they believe that, buried in them, they will
rest more easily in their graves. It is difficult to appreciate the
solemnity of the worship at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
There is superstition mixed with earnest, honest faith, as is so often
the case in the poor, weak human brain, even in those who lay claim to
greater intellectuality than these poor pilgrims.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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