The Holy Land and SyriaCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Religion
The Holy Land and Syria
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Climbing the hill, we come into the town of Bethlehem. We find ourselves
in a maze of box-like, one-, two-, and three-story limestone houses.
They stand close to the edges of winding streets, which are here and
there arched over to shut out the sun. The town, which has about fifteen
thousand inhabitants, is probably ten times as large as it was when
Christ was born. Its chief revenue comes from its association with the
Christian religion and the fact that Christ was born here. There are
thousands of tourists who visit the birthplace of the Saviour every year,
and the chief business of the Bethlehemites is making rosaries, crosses,
and articles of wood and mother-of-pearl for sale to the pilgrims as well
as for shipment abroad. I was surprised to learn that the mother-of-pearl
used is imported from the United States, where it is known as “pearl
waste.” Shells are carved and sold to tourists in Jerusalem and
elsewhere, and the Palestine beads, so largely used as rosaries, both
by Mohammedans and Christians, are made here. These beads are filed out
of oyster shells until they are the right size. Holes are then drilled
in them and they are polished by shaking them about in crockery vessels
with a little water. After this they are treated in a weak solution of
nitric acid, polished again, and strung on cords of silk or wire. Crosses
and hearts are made of mother-of-pearl, and sometimes a little image
of the Saviour is attached to the rosary. Much of this work is done by
women and girls, who receive from twelve to twenty-five cents a day. It
is estimated that the total production of such wares sells for in the
neighbourhood of two hundred thousand dollars a year, and that something
like thirty thousand dollars’ worth are shipped to the United States
annually.
The grotto or cave in which Christ was born is in the very heart of the
Bethlehem of to-day. There is an open square in front of it surrounded
by stores and schools, and a great church known as the Church of the
Nativity has been built over it. The church is entered by a door which
looks like a square hole cut through a stone wall. It is so low that
all who enter, even the children, must stoop. As I started to go in I
saw a Bethlehem woman with a baby in her arms standing outside. The
baby was small, and I could imagine the woman as Mary and the child as
the Saviour. Taking a coin out of my pocket, I asked her to pose for
my camera. She did so, carrying the child into the sun. Near by, in the
shadow of the church, was a bearded Syrian in turban and gown, and at
first I thought he might make a good Joseph to pose with my Mary. Upon
bringing him into the light, however, I found that he was a beggar and
would not fit into the picture, so I enriched him with a gift of five
cents and sent him back to his seat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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