It was the same irresistible impulse that drew the warrior, the monk,
and the scholar towards the mystical city which was to mediæval Europe
more than Delphi had been to the Greek or Mecca to the Islamite, the
Jerusalem of Christianity, the city which had once ruled the earth,
and now ruled the world of disembodied spirits[326]. For there was
then, as there is now, something in Rome to attract men of every
class. The devout pilgrim came to pray at the shrine of the Prince of
the Apostles, too happy if he could carry back to his monastery in the
forests of Saxony or by the bleak Atlantic shore the bone of some holy
martyr; the lover of learning and poetry dreamed of Virgil and Cicero
among the shattered columns of the Forum; the Germanic kings, in spite
of pestilence, treachery and seditions, came with their hosts to seek
in the ancient capital of the world the fountain of temporal dominion.
Nor has the spell yet wholly lost its power. To half the Christian
nations Rome is the metropolis of religion, to all the metropolis of
art. In her streets, and hers alone among the cities of the world, may
every form of human speech be heard: she is more glorious in her decay
and desolation than the stateliest seats of modern power.
But while men thought thus of Rome, what was Rome herself?
The modern traveller, after his first few days in Rome, when he has
looked out upon the Campagna from the summit of St. Peter's, paced the
chilly corridors of the Vatican, and mused under the echoing dome of
the Pantheon, when he has passed in review the monuments of regal and
republican and papal Rome, begins to seek for some relics of the
twelve hundred years that lie between Constantine and Pope Julius the
Second. 'Where,' he asks, 'is the Rome of the Middle Ages, the Rome of
Alberic and Hildebrand and Rienzi? the Rome which dug the graves of so
many Teutonic hosts; whither the pilgrims flocked; whence came the
commands at which kings bowed? Where are the memorials of the
brightest age of Christian architecture, the age which reared Cologne
and Rheims and Westminster, which gave to Italy the cathedrals of
Tuscany and the wave-washed palaces of Venice?'
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