The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 1Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 1
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Elmdon, were it not for that pretty roadside timber-framed inn, the
‘Cock,’ would be but a name and nothing else, so far as the road could
show. Passing it, bid a long farewell, O traveller along the Holyhead
Road, to the country, for in less than another two miles Wells Green is
reached and Birmingham within hail. Thereafter, in nothing less than
eighteen miles shall you see the hedgerows, the fields, and the quiet
road again. Birmingham and the Black Country intervene, and not until,
having gained and overpassed Wolverhampton, you ascend the heights of
Tettenhall, will the sun be seen shining in a clear sky once more.
Meanwhile, here is Wells Green, the last approach to the likeness of the
country on this side of Birmingham, and by consequence a place of great
half-holiday and Sunday resort. Midland cyclists are its chief patrons.
For them the “Old Original” tea-house caters, for their custom also the
“Ship,” the “Lighthouse,” and many more compete frantically among each
other, attracting attention by large and elaborate models of ships,
lighthouses, and other objects displayed beside the road. The two old
roadside inns—the “Wheatsheaf” and the “Crown”—have been ornately
rebuilt; the “Crown” vulgarly.
Beyond Wells Green the road enters an outlying portion of Worcestershire
and comes to Yardley, a new-built Birmingham suburb, whose shops, dotted
here and there by the wayside, alternate with barns, cow-houses and
hedges, presently to give place to suburban streets and so provide those
shops with customers. In the hollow succeeding Yardley, at Hay Mills,
where a little stream runs, not yet completely polluted and decently
buried from sight in a drain pipe, the mile’s length of Worcestershire
ends. Hay Mills now belies its idyllic name, for it is here that modern
Birmingham definitely begins, and the smoke-cloud and traffic of that
great city grow in density.
Small Heath, Bordesley, Deritend, and Digbeth, that are all comprised in
the next two and a half miles, are now but the various names
distinguishing what would otherwise be one long street, growing
gradually more grimy and crowded : a hilly street, where hideous steam
tramways, belching smoke and smuts, run noisily, like armoured trains,
and where the few old gabled cottages that are left, to tell of times
when this was a country road, are closely beset by modern houses,
already hung with soot, like the cobwebs on bottles of old port. A
dramatic change indeed from what Leland saw, when he journeyed to
Birmingham in 1538, and came “through as pretty a street as ever I
entred, into Bermingham towne. This street, as I remember, is called
Dirtey.” He meant Deritend, which, if called “Dirtey” to-day would by no
means be libelled. “Dirty End” would be an easy change from the real
name of the squalid street, and equally descriptive of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account