The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Cox himself has told how he came to paint the sign. It was done in 1847,
at a time when his art and his reputation were ripe. The old painted
board, fixed against the wall of the house, had become faded with long
exposure to the weather, and he volunteered to repaint it for his old
friend the landlady. The long street of Bettws was infinitely quieter in
1847 than now. The houses were few and scattered, the railway had done
away with the coaches, and tourists were uncommon, so that he not
unreasonably expected to do the work without interruption. He had
ascended a short ladder, and was working away with palette on thumb, and
heaps of pigments and the largest brushes he could lay hands on, when it
suddenly occurred to him that he was not in a very dignified position
for a man of his standing; and that, should he be seen by any one
passing through Bettws, a very ridiculous story might be put into
circulation, not at all to his advantage. However, he summoned up
courage, and comforted himself with the reflection that he would not be
observed, or, if seen, would be taken for a common house-painter. But,
when in the midst of his work, to his horror he heard a carriage
approaching. “Now,” he thought, “I’m done for! Perhaps, though, it will
pass by.” But, instead of passing, it halted beneath, a pretty face
looked up at him from it, and a voice exclaimed: “Why, it _is_ Mr. Cox,
I declare!” The lady was a former pupil of his who, recently married,
was travelling in Wales on her honeymoon. “That is not the ladder of
Fame you are on now,” she said.
[Illustration: SIGN OF THE “ROYAL OAK.”]
Poor Cox was horrified. If he explained the why and the how of his work
that day, it evidently did not make the impression of sincerity, for the
stories of his painting the sign to wipe off a debt obviously derive
from this chance meeting.
Two years later the painter retouched his work. In 1861, two years after
his death, it was, at the request of many admirers, removed from the
outside and placed in the hall of the house, then become a “hotel,” and
beginning that series of rebuildings and extensions that have made it
what it is to-day. In 1880 the then landlady became bankrupt, and the
trustees of the estate claimed the old sign as a valuable asset, stating
that a connoisseur had offered £1,000 for it, a statement that moved the
late Cuthbert Bede to scandalised incredulity. It, however, would
certainly bring bids of more than double that amount if put up to
auction to-day.
The claim of the trustees was disputed by the freeholder, the Baroness
Willoughby De Eresby, and the matter was decided in her favour, with
costs. The famous sign was judged to be a fixture, and may yet be seen
in the hall of the hotel, handsomely enshrined behind glass in a
decorative overmantel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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