The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
The full name of the village that now comes in view at a bend of the
road presents an unparalleled array of grotesquely assorted letters to
the bewildered Saxon. It is without doubt by far the longest place-name
in the United Kingdom, and can probably challenge the whole world. It is
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerchwyrndrobwlltysiliogogogoch. The stationers
and booksellers of Bangor and Menai Village sell for the modest price of
one penny what is described as the “Englishman’s cure for lock-jaw”—a
printed sheet with this fearsome word divided into its proper syllables,
and the translation into English underneath. Enterprising tourists, at
pains to master the pronunciation of Welsh, go forth into Anglesey, and,
having caught a Welshman who can be made to understand a little English,
parade their version; but when the native can be induced to pronounce it
at all the name sounds very different. He generally, however, calls it
“Llanfairpwllgwyngyll”; while the signposts, not provided with longer
arms than usual, are models of compression, with “Llanfair P G”; the
London and North-Western Railway recklessly naming the station
“Llanfair,” careless of the fact that Llanfair, meaning “St. Mary’s
Church,” is as common a Welsh place-name as Jones is among Welshmen.
But this astonishing name, like most others in the Principality, is (or
was originally) descriptive, and contained almost as much local
information as a guide-book. Done into English it means “the church of
Saint Mary in the hollow of white hazel, near to the rapid whirlpool of
Saint Tysilio and a red cave.” The church of St. Mary may, indeed, be
found in the deep hollow at the foot of an incredibly steep lane and by
the shores of the Menai, where whirlpools of sorts are created by the
tides that set so strongly through the Straits, and rise and fall over
twenty feet; but the red cave is not now to be discovered, and they are
oaks and elms rather than white hazels that to-day enshroud the hollow.
Llanfair church has been rebuilt and is uninteresting. In its
churchyard, close to the shore and almost in the shadow of the great
Britannia Tubular Bridge that carries the mail trains between Anglesey
and the mainland, one may find the decaying monument, overgrown with
bushes, erected to the memory of fifteen men who lost their lives on the
bridge works between 1846 and 1850. The bridge itself, “that ’ere great,
long, ugly iron thing,” as the coachmen whom it drove off the last
length of road called it, bulks large from this point of view, with an
irrevocable air in its straight, clear-cut lines and massiveness, and a
stern and solemn grandeur—like that of some Egyptian monument; in sharp
contrast with the Menai Suspension Bridge, spanning the waters in the
distance like the product of some fairy wand.
[Illustration: THE BRITANNIA BRIDGE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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