England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
The first half-mile of the main road through Streatley to Wantage is
the beginning of the Ridgeway’s ascent; but a little past the fork to
Wallingford the Ridgeway becomes separate from this main road, and goes
westward out of it. There was at first no possibility of an alternative
out of Streatley to the west, and I set out on the same road as when
I followed the Ridgeway. On my left I saw “Lyndhurst,” “Bellevue,”
and “Montefiore,” or their more expensive equivalents. I ignored the
first coombe, the turning up it of the Ridgeway, and went on upon the
roadside grass bordered with wormwood and traveller’s joy. Almost
at once the road crossed the entrance to another coombe running up
westward into the Moulsford Downs, and those woods which the Ridgeway
skirts on the south. It was a shallow coombe, the sides dappled with
thorns, the bottom covered with corn, and in the midst of it a barn
called Well Barn. Through the mouth of the coombe which opened towards
the river in the east I saw the pale corn, and the dark woods above it,
of the Chilterns. Crossing this coombe the road had no hedges, but corn
on both sides. It was usually hedgeless, but banked as it went up and
down, and dipped into another coombe of the same kind called Moulsford
Bottom, where a quarter-mile north of the thirteenth milestone from
Wantage a road came in from the South Stoke Ferry, the continuation,
perhaps, of a track from the Icknield Way near Ipsden. From Moulsford
Bottom the main road went visibly curving uphill, but from the top of
Kingstanding Hill, at three hundred feet, it went straight between its
low hedges and grassy banks towards Blewburton Hill. It had still corn
on both sides in stooks, downs on the left, and on the right the valley
of dark trees stretching far away into mist. It was a plain, well-kept
road of easy gradients, no corners, and such banks or hedges that
anything approaching in front could be seen. It lacked the company of
telegraph wires.
The villages of Aston were almost completely hidden on my right, as
I passed within a third of a mile of them. That was by the eleventh
milestone from Wantage, and there the road was following along and
under one of the low, natural walls of chalk which so often guide a
road and are in turn defined by it. My road, Icknield Way or not, went
hedgeless under this wall, with oats above and stubble below. The
flowers on its narrow green edges were chiefly yellow parsnip and white
carrot, both dear for their scents, and succory, that pale blue flower
which a strange fate has closely attached to the coarsest and stiffest
of dark stems and placed where dust is likely to be most thick.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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