England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
The landlady thought of someone else, made inquiries,
and assured me that the bed would be ready when Mrs. Somebody got
back from church. So I went out and looked at Burderop, Ladder Hill,
and the turning “To the Downs and Rockley.” The woman was back from
church and opened the door to me. She had a background of women taking
off Sunday hats and putting away veils and prayer-books, and said she
was sorry, but a niece had come, and there was no room for me. In the
darkening street I saw an old man at a gate with a genial face and the
mouth of one accustomed to horses. I asked him if he knew of a bed
to spare. “No--oh-oh-oh--no,” he chuckled, with increased geniality.
“You’ve come to the wrong place.... Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho no,” he continued.
“I can’t tell you why; but if you want a bed you have to go to a
town.” He was only a visitor to Chisledon, and I wished him better
treatment than I had got. I set out for Swindon. In about a mile I
came to another inn, where I had always enjoyed the bread and cheese
and ale, and I unwillingly silenced a black-coated company of grave
drinkers standing at the bar. They suspended their glasses while the
landlord said that it was absolutely impossible to get a bed that side
of Swindon. I tried at Coate. The barmaid appealed to Mr. MacFaggart,
who was standing by--“Perhaps Mrs. MacFaggart can spare a bed?” “No.”
This series of refusals was, I am convinced, pure ill-luck. But the
stout woman refused me, almost beyond doubt, because I was a stranger
whom she could not immediately classify. I could not be classed as
a “gentleman,” as a young “gent” or “swell,” or as a plain “young
fellow.” She decided not to risk it. Perhaps she had savings about the
house. Or did she think that underneath less than two days’ beard, that
oldish and not very clean Burberry waterproof, those good but very
baggy trousers, murder was lurking? No, probably she felt not the very
slightest inclination to please me, and as it only meant half a crown,
her one difficulty in refusing was her natural sullenness increased by
the presence of the nondescript and unsympathetic casual stranger on a
Sunday. Country people know a country gentleman, a sporting financier,
a tradesman, a young townsman (clerk or artisan), a working man, and a
real tramp or roadster. Some of them know the artist or distinguished
foreigner, with a foot of hair, broad-brimmed hat, and corduroy or soft
tweeds, a cloak and an ostentatious pipe, tasselled, or of enormous
bulk, or elaborate form or unusual substance. Some know the hairy and
hygienic man in sandals. To be elbowed out at nightfall after a day’s
walking by an unconscious conspiracy of a whole village was enough to
produce either a hate of Chisledon or a belief that the devil or a
distinguished relative was organizing the opposition. But during those
four unexpected miles to Swindon in the volcanic heat of evening,
which produced several pains and a constant struggle between impatient
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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