England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
Now once more the Icknield Way is thrown out of its course for a little
way, this time by Akeman Street, a modern road to Aylesbury, the
ancient road from this region to Cirencester, which was the junction
for Wales, Devon, and Cornwall. It enters Akeman Street a third of
a mile east of the thirty-third milestone from London. The Icknield
Way was presumably older; it was at least old when Akeman Street was
Romanized and came cutting in a straight line across its meanders;
and therefore it lost confidence for half a mile and forsook them and
took to the Roman straight line until suddenly stumbling upon itself
again at one of its meanders further on it returned to its old way.
The scene is like the picture of a wandering life interrupted by a
year of discipline. The stark telegraph-posts in line seem part of the
discipline. Possibly for years, for centuries, the meanders survived,
more and more faintly, with the straight line, enclosing a rough
and crooked space. This space beside Tring Hill should have been a
common for ever; but either it never was or a common award handed it
over to the largest mouth. Opposite the milestone it turns out from
the main road in its old south-westerly direction, and escapes the
telegraph-posts. For some time it was unlike its old self because it
had hardly any grassy margin. It went up and down again and again, and
often steeply, and the more hilly a modern road the less likely it is
to have wide margins. Near Halton there was a wayside border but little
if at all trodden, and not fed down by sheep. A traveller joining the
road for a mile or so would have failed to see in it any distant or
ancient purpose; it was a winding country lane metalled for modern
uses, and by Halton House made polite with firs and laurels. In one
place, as we neared Wendover, I saw the old course and its bank and
also a hedge beyond the present one. Past Halton Woods the hills recede
southward and there is a gap of a mile between steep Boddington Hill
and steep Bacombe Hill. Through this gap comes the road from London,
Uxbridge, and Amersham to Aylesbury, and the railway with it: at the
entrance stands Wendover. Through this long little town of cottages the
Icknield Way goes as High Street and Pound Street. We were now close
under Bacombe Hill, with its camp and barrow. In front, jutting out and
making the road curve west before it could resume its south-west course
by a sharp turn south, lay the Coombe Hill and its obelisk, Beacon Hill
sprinkled with thorns, and Pulpit Hill. As we climbed the lower slopes
of Bacombe Hill I noticed that the roadside green had been dug up and
enclosed by a second hedge. Beyond there was a good green margin now
on the left and now on the right, and beeches rustled from the hedges;
and on both sides grew corn. The road went up and down, coming thus
suddenly in sight of Ellesborough Church tower rising pale ahead out
of its trees against the clear line of the hills. Past Butler’s Cross,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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