(4) On the structure of the scraper. If it is not absolutely uniform and
well fitted to the stone, more power is needed. Thus the defect often is
corrected; but this may make the color squash and spread in other spots,
therefore it always is better to correct any defects in the scraper. The
sharper the scraper is, the clearer are the impressions, because then
the whole force of the pressure concentrates on the smallest area. But
usually the scraper soon becomes dull, and then the press must have
more power.
(5) Insufficient tension of the leather also may produce poor
impressions, especially if the color is soft and the paper very wet.
Therefore as soon as impressions appear blurred and squashed, the
leather should be tautened and well lubricated with tallow.
Now we come to an important matter, namely, the correction of errors. It
does not happen often that a drawing or inscription can be made entirely
without error, and it would be a great imperfection in lithography if
these mistakes could not be corrected at once.
Errors may be observed before etching or afterward. Different ways of
making corrections are required.
It is very easy to make corrections before etching. If the error is
observed as soon as it is made, while the ink still is wet, it may be
corrected by merely wiping out the defect with the finger. If the ink is
dry, oil of turpentine is required. In each case the ink must be well
removed so that it will not resist the etching fluid later. If only tiny
spots are defective they can be corrected by delicate use of a sharp
eraser. Defects that need merely to be destroyed without drawing
anything else in their place may be scraped off with a knife or with
pumice stone.
After the plate is etched, errors demand treatments that differ
according to whether a defect or blemish is merely to be removed,
whether something else is to be drawn in place of the removed part, or
if something has been forgotten and is to be added. The area of the
correction also makes a difference.
If it is only a matter of removing small defects or places, delicate
erasure will do. The same, or polishing with pumice, is done if the area
is larger. Then the corrected spots must be coated with a mixture of gum
and aquafortis, using a soft brush very carefully that it may not touch
any of the sound places.
If something new is to be drawn in, the process is different. Ink-in the
stone very clean, and coat it with gum and water that is very thin and
delicate. Let it dry. Then scrape the defective places away very
carefully or grind them away by rubbing with pumice stone. Coat the
spots cautiously with soap-water or oil of turpentine and clean off
again as thoroughly as possible. (This coating is not necessary in the
case of a few isolated small lines or points.) Now draw in your new
design with chemical ink, and as soon as this is dry, etch the
corrections carefully with a small brush and then prepare with gum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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