The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-ChooSpalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
History
The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo
Spalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
Japan -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Blenheim Reach is about ninety miles from Hong Kong, and fifteen from
Canton, whose port, together with Whampoa Reach, separated from it by
paddy-field islands, it may be called. It was up this passage that
the English ship “Blenheim” went to Canton, and was enabled to turn
the enemy’s flank during the late war. Ahead of us laid the huge old
East Indiamen, looking like line-of-battle ships, and waiting till
they got aboard their twenty thousand chests, and not far from them
the _Aberdeen clippers_, which may take rank as such only when the
_American_ clippers are away. At Whampoa, off a collection of most
forbidding-looking houses, built over the muddy water, composing the
Chinese town, there lay the foreign ships, the mandarin watch-boats,
the junks, the chop-hulks from which stores are supplied, the
protestant and catholic floating-bethels for the good of souls, and the
well-armed opium-schooners whose cargoes destroy bodies.
We laid in Blenheim Reach under the whole, hissing, hot sun of August
and September. There being a heavy fresh in the river at the time of
our arrival, the banks were overflown, and our ship did not swing
at her anchors for some days. Old China street at Canton was a foot
under water, and you reached the entrance to the hongs through the
foreign garden, in a sedan-chair, or on the backs of wading coolies.
During the height of the swollen current, dead Chinamen floated down
and hung in our wheels; and when the water subsided, the exhalation of
fields of alluvial black mud, and the visits of furious flowery-kingdom
mosquitoes, who, like the ghostly breeches of Mickey Free’s father,
were ever going between us and sleep, neither contributed to the
healthfulness nor comfort of our anchorage. Our comforts were further
increased by looking upon scenery which was unrelieved except by a
litchee grove here and there. The weather was terribly hot, and if the
thermometer had been longer, it would have probably been hotter; with
ratan-mat and bamboo-pillow you sought a spot under the awnings of the
hurricane or poop deck, that you might half-restless and half-snoozing
pass the night, while during the day the windsails were of little
use, and drop and drop came down the tar from the rigging. Boils and
other cutaneous eruptions affected the crew, with annoyances greater
than those of Job, and yet they had not the salubrious climate of a
Palestine in which to endure them. The dislocating-jaw beef, and fowls,
and fresh food furnished us by the Chinamen, together with watery
vegetables, nearly destitute of any nutritious qualities, were only
partly compensated for by the half-fresh cherrymoya, custard-apple,
banana, or splendid persimmon—persimmons splendid! Sometimes we would
have a thunder-storm which would purify the atmosphere for a time,
but back would soon come the stagnated, sweltering temperature, which
neither _white_ slippers nor grass-cloth could make more comfortable,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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