The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-ChooSpalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
History
The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo
Spalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
Japan -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Meanwhile the officers of the ship, in an armed fast-boat, paid
frequent visits to the city; at times for visits merely and purchases,
and at others, when emergency seemed to require, with armed cutters
and howitzers. The objects on the route all became familiar, as if
going up and down one of our own rivers—the pagodas, the water-side
joss-houses—the rows of the plantain-trees skirting the fields,
and the big-sailed craft going lazily along in the mud canals that
intersected them. We soon came and went through the huge water-craft
moored head and stern in the approach to the city, and through the
lanes of the innumerable small boats, with their three hundred thousand
water population, or noticed the small ferryboats, in which, at the
fourth of a cent each, thirty thousand people cross and re-cross daily,
without interest almost. You might stroll the streets beyond the
walls, and purchase the curiously-carved ivory and the many elegant
and ingeniously-made articles of China, but the shopkeeper was in
considerable trepidation and would speculate much on the “too muchee
bobbery,” as he called the anticipated fighting.
I was there during the feast of the Lanterns. In going out from the
solitary hotel, kept by Acow—_compradore_ of one of our former
commissioners to China, from whom, I suppose, he learned the little
English he knew—you generally, through the volunteer aid of the
Jemmy-Twitcher Mongols, immediately part with your kerchief and
gloves, and it is no matter that you saw the celestial who took them,
for if he once mixes with the crowd you could no more undertake to
individualize him than you would be able to tell a particular spoke in
a revolving-wheel. By you, passes a fellow with as much timber locked
around his neck, for some offence, as a mortar-board would contain. Of
the innumerable gongs beating, one struck at intervals attracts your
attention. The fellow who strikes it is walking the street in front of
a bare-backed malefactor, whose queue is wrapped around his head, and
whose hands are tied behind him. As he walks, at each tap of the gong
from the man in front, a following attendant lashes him with split
ratan. It would take too long to enumerate the scenes witnessed in a
Chinese street. During the day the bonzes marched through the streets
attired in their yellow robes, stopping at intervals to chin-chin
joss, by beating on gongs. At night tall prosceniums and staging are
erected at the entrances of streets, just inside of their gates,
and extending up as high as the roofs of the houses. These are most
gorgeously and grotesquely decorated, and lit up with large fantastic
lanterns and small lamps, looking like hundreds of illuminated lemons;
adown either side of the streets are hung other lanterns in front of
each store-door. The expense of all this, and the compensation of the
performers, who represent the “sing-song” on the stage, and go on with
their horrible caterwauling to the great delight of the throng in the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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