On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia and Lexington having preceded us, the Powhatan and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the bay of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships as we went, after passing Sagama cape, the two ships stood over in the direction of Ohosima, that the bearings of that island might be taken, and then headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay of Kawatsu on our right hand. The volcano on Ohorima was not in a state of eruption, as when we passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape Idzoo, and by three o’clock were up with Rock island, that marks the mouth, and ran into the harbor of Simoda. This place from having been visited in May, 1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own sailing ships, which preceded us, were no novelty to the people, but the approach of the Powhatan and Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow entrance, filled the height on either side with a throng, looking for the first time, and with wonder, on steamships. CHAPTER XII. Simoda—in Japanese “Lowerfield”—situated in the principality of Idzoo, which occupies about the same latitudinal, though not isothermal lines—as our state of North Carolina, is a place containing a population of twenty thousand. The streets are narrow, though regularly laid out, and at their intersections have gates, which may be easily closed in the event of any _emeute_. At their points are also placed stone structures, surmounted by little roofs protecting copies of the laws and municipal regulations so conspicuously posted, that all who run, may read. The houses, which are usually and ornamentally stuccoed in light blue and white diamond shapes, are nearly all of one story with parapets, and without chimneys. Between the parapets wires are stretched to prevent the bird, which “by the hoarseness of its note doth indicate a crow,” from alighting on the roofs. The Japanese certainly can’t regard them as a bird of evil omen, from the great numbers that fill their streets. Perhaps they are kept from injury, for sanitary purposes, like one more ungainly, found in our southern cities. There are a number of temples in and near the place, dedicated to different deities. Behind the town stretches a lovely level valley for some miles, through which flows a little stream—Simoda gawa, and surrounded on either side by towering bluff-hills, that make the resemblance very great to the scenery on the Potomac, at Harper’s Ferry. From this stream, junks and ships are supplied with fresh water, and on its banks are built rice and grain mills, with undershot wheels, to turn which, the water is diverted from its course by artificial excavations. The amphitheatre of high hills that surround the place in other directions, is very thickly wooded, and presents a green and lovely prospect from the water. The town has about fifteen hundred houses, and it is wonderful to see how many people a Japanese town will hold.