The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-ChooSpalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
History
The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world: An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo
Spalding, J. W. (J. Willett)
Japan -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
The city—containing about four thousand houses, in which there is an
average of four persons—is built in a convex form reaching the water’s
edge, and at the base of a very high and abrupt circular hill, called
_Hakodadi Yama_. The most prominent objects are the temples, one of
which is some two hundred feet square, whose red tile roofs reflect
the sun, and suggest the idea of a Portuguese place. The principal
streets are wide, running parallel with the water, rolled with gravel,
and very cleanly kept. Those that intersect them are narrower, and
closed with gateways of wood. From walls at either end of the place,
and entrenchments dug on other sides, it must have been the object
to fortify it. The houses of wood, and with more stories and larger
than those of Simoda, have great projecting eaves. The clap-boards
making the covering of the roof are singularly confined in their
places by a number of cobble-stones: such a place would be hard to
take by street-fighting, for every roof would furnish missiles for the
annoyance of assailants. Every precaution seems to be taken against
fire—brooms and barrels of water surmounting each house and before
every door. At some places they have primitive little fire-engines,
which appear to be stationary. The streets are thronged with the police
who are very numerous, armed with sword, and organized as military,
and any number of miserable-looking curs, called _yenos_, resembling
shouds, or dogs bred between the wolf and the dog; meaner looking than
the _cayotes_ of California.
Having no previous knowledge of our intended visit, a perfect panic
prevailed among the people of the place on the arrival of our sailing
ships in their bay, which was increased by the arrival of the two
fire-ships. The municipal authorities, it is said, were the first to
leave the place; and the women were sent after them. For several days
long lines of horses, packed with movables, could be seen leaving the
City and winding away over a long sandy plain, like a string of camels
in a desert.
The cause of all this commotion was afterward found to be a belief
among the inhabitants, that our visit was to bring them to account
for having imprisoned some American seamen who had been shipwrecked
on their coast some years ago. A number of the junks in the harbor
also left, though there were some two hundred at anchor continually
during our stay. It required some time to pacify the people; although
six weeks had elapsed since the signing of the treaty, the authorities
protested that they had heard nothing of it, and consequently nothing
of the intended visit of the squadron. They said they could not
take the responsibility of having any communication with us, except
to furnish wood and water. They represented their position as
embarrassing, and hoped that we would not come ashore until the arrival
of higher officers than themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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